Dean & Trish

The End!

2010-12-12T00:21:00.001-08:00

Before: (January 20, 2010) Pale Oregon skin, excellent physical condition, intrigued by the world...

After: (December 10, 2010) Tropic tan, 10# weight gain, wiser to the ways of the world...

Our trip in a nutshell: USA-Cook Islands-New Zealand-Australia-USA-Japan-Thailand-Laos-Vietnam-Cambodia-Thailand-Malaysia-Singapore-Turkey-Italy-Croatia-Italy-C***-Canada-USA-Germany-South Africa-Mozambique-South Africa-Madagascar-South Africa-Zambia-Botswana-Tanzania-Egypt-Jordan-Oman-USA!

What an amazing year! Not a bad honeymoon.

We experienced so many adventures- kayaking to a deserted island, tubing through caves, backpacking, hiking on glaciers, rock climbing, scuba diving, running hashes all over the world, shark cage diving, riding horses in the Snowy Mountains, swimming with Whale sharks, snorkeling, bike tours, getting stung by stingrays, hiking, Oktoberfest (where drinking is a sport), whale watching, tubing the Vang Vieng, swimming on the edge of Victoria Falls, riding elephants and camels, a safari, and avoiding shark attacks in Egypt!

We experienced so many foods-White Bait sandwiches in New Zealand, Okonomiyaki in Japan, Chicken frog in Malaysia, Singapore Sling in Singapore, Paw-paw and passion fruit in the Cook Islands, Beer Lao in Laos, Laksa in Borneo, Haxe (pig knuckle) in Germany, Baba Ghanoug in Oman, Kushari in Egypt, Zabu in Madagascar, Ink Fish Risotto in Croatia, Simet in Turkey, Green Curry in Thailand and Fish and Chips in Australia.

We experienced so many different accommodations- friendly B&B’s, Japanese ryokans, Turkish gulet, Cambodian dive boat, safari tents, hostels, Capsules in Japan, apartments, Egyptian dahabiya, run down motels, fancy hotels, beach house, camper van in Tasmania, villas, rustic bungalow, and a hut in the Routeburn Track, New Zealand.

We experienced so many different types of transport-motorcycle, ferries, dhows, riding in the back of trucks, chapas, Tuk-tuk, Citroen taxi, 4WD, rental cars (driven on the “wrong” side of the road!), Floating bus (Venice), slow boat, “VIP” bus, mini-van with chickens on the roof, bullet train, long boat, airplane (toooo many to count), felucca, safari truck, moped, pirogue, and gondola.

We experienced so many sites- Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the Pyramids of Giza in Egypt, the Cu Chi tunnels in Vietnam, Peace Memorial Museum in Hiroshima, Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, S-21 Prison in Cambodia, The Grand Bazaar in Turkey, St Marcos Square in Venice, Red Light District in Bangkok, Diocletians Palace in Croatia, Avenue du Baoababs in Madagascar, District Six Museum in South Africa, and the Petronas Towers in Malaysia.

We experienced so many wonderful people- friends and family who met us out on the road, friends we made along the way, locals who reached out to us, and hashers we ran with.

Thanks for reading! Now get out and travel!

Trish and Dean

Muscat, Oman

2010-12-12T00:07:00.000-08:00

After an uneventful overnight in Amman, Jordan we arrived in Muscat, Oman with a sigh of relief. Gone are the hawkers and the garbage strewn streets…here the streets are practically paved in gold! Colorful flowers and ornate street lamps all strung with lights! It was like Disneyland. (To be fair, it is not always strung with lights- they are celebrating the 40^th National Day).

We wandered through the Mutrah Souk with its labyrinth of alleyways in a fog of frankincense. Here you can barter for gold, silver, pashminas, old guns and other Arabic trinkets.

We headed into town to hike through the mountains. The view was incredible from so high up! Unfortunately, I think we lost the trail…as we ended up having to climb over a dam to get back to the waterfront. Omani women don’t exercise, so our cab driver Mohamed said to Dean “Your wife is very strong!”

The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, the third largest mosque in the world. The complex is over 40,000 sq meters and is able to accommodate an amazing 20,000 worshippers. Construction started in 1995 and took six years to complete. It is well known for the huge Swarovski crystal chandelier and the second largest handmade Persian carpet in the world. The carpet took four years to make and weighs a staggering 21 tons. It was handmade in Iran by a workforce of 600 women.

We rented a car and drove two hours to the town of Nizwah. In the 16^th and 17^th centuries Nizwah was the largest oasis, the centre of trade and the capital of Oman. The Nizwah fort was built in the 17^th century, construction spanned 30 years and it is one of the oldest and most famous forts in Oman. They did an amazing job of restoring it.

Fancy Arabic dinner! Dean ordered the mixed grill and I had the waiter order a vegetarian meal for me. It was fantastic….a spinach-noodle-bean soup, hummus, big salad and vegetable stuffed bread. We are now addicted to the lemon-mint drink…that’s what happens when they don’t serve alcohol!

We drove another two hours out to Wadi Shab, an oasis created by thousands of years of rain eroding unimaginable amounts of earth. Most of the locals stayed right by the parking lot, which is where the wadi meets the sea. Perfect for us, as we hiked for an hour down the wadi by ourselves!

Clear water rimmed by wild date palms….not a bad place to be!

After an hour we got to a point where you could only continue by swimming. Emerald green water on a hot day…

Disclaimer: I got this picture off the internet! I had read about the “keyhole,” a narrow head shaped space eroded out of the rock face at what appeared to be the end of the wadi. We had two local Omani’s following us, and they couldn't believe it when I swam through the tiny cave (actually, I couldn’t believe it myself…very dark, deep and claustrophobic!)

Disclaimer: This is not Dean, I don’t know who this is…but it is a good picture, so I stole it off the internet! After you swim through the hole without your head getting stuck, you come into a magnificent cave with a waterfall. The Omani locals quickly swam back to get their friends probably saying, “We followed these crazy Americans into this tiny cave, come see!”

We (as well as our B&B host and another guest) were invited to lunch by our cab driver, Mohamed. The Omani people are so hospitable! We got to experience a true Omani meal. We were brought into the front room that was filled with incense smoke (looked like something out of a Cheech and Chong movie!) and watched TV (why talk?) His children then set the table, well tablecloth. We were summoned to the floor where we ate whole fish, rice, different fruits and juices. Our host kept refilling our plates with food, and saying “eat, eat, EAT!” The wife and children were not present. Afterwards we had Omani coffee and dates. The other female guest and I were brought into another room to meet the wife. Normally, the women and men would be in separate rooms the entire meal…but we were treated differently since we were “westerners.” Fascinating!

Our last night in Muscat we ran with the Jobel Hash House Harriers. We were driven out into the desert with a group of about 30 runners. We ran on a freeway (not yet open!), through a work camp (locals staring in awe), down a dry river bed, through a long dark culvert (with lots of things to trip over), through a construction site and back. All in all, a wonderful way to end our stay in Oman! Now on to one night in Munich, Germany….and HOME!

The Red Sea, Egypt

2010-12-05T05:21:00.001-08:00

We arrived in Sharm el-Sheikh, known as "Egypt's answer to Las Vegas" or the "Red Sea Riviera." When we went down to the beachfront promenade we immediately encountered a Hard Rock Cafe, TGI Friday's, KFC and McDonalds. We stayed at a beautiful B&B run by an Italian couple and located in a nearby village with a mountain backdrop. Local food, goats and camels running around...much more our speed!
Lucky for us, Sharm is also known as a "scuba-diving paradise." We came here only to dive...as did EVERYONE else! We did get to complete two "checkout" dives and see how amazing the crystal clear water really is. Unfortunately for us (and some Russian and German tourists) there were two shark attacks in two days (and later a fatality). So we were unable to dive the Thistlegorm, a 129m-long cargo ship that sank in 1941...Dean's dream dive.
We moved an hour north to Dahab, the "Ko Samui of the Middle East." A backpackers dream.... crystal clear diving, golden beaches and a rugged mountain backdrop. We snorkeled right off the promenade, and it was amazing!
We stayed at a great apartment in the village (again, lot's of goats and camels). Dean and Tim (the owner), on the rooftop arisha. Ocean view on one side and mountains on the other.

Our first dive site was the Canyon...a long narrow trench that runs perpendicular to the reef shelf. Divers descend 30m to the bottom of the canyon, so you can see bubbles coming up and out of the ground. Very beautiful! Afterwards you drink tea and eat lunch at one of the many pillow strewn restaurants.
Our second dive was at the famous Bells and Blue Hole. This is the Bells, a narrow breach in the reef table, named because of the noise the tanks make as they ring against the rock on the way down. You descend through a chimney, exiting at 27m. It is like riding a glass elevator!
Above you can see the Blue Hole....a gaping sinkhole that drops straight down- some say to as deep as 130m. Unfortunately, the site has claimed many lives...thrill seekers that have gone to far, or divers who have lost all sense of direction in the "blue." It was very much like sky-diving!
The Bedouin's and their camels. You can take a camel safari out into the desert, even spend a few nights. You can also take a Bedouin-led camel convoy on a dive trip...the camels carry the scuba tanks and dive gear!
Our last day we intended to hike from Blue Hole out to Ras Abu Gallum Protectorate, 400 sq km of coastline with excellent snorkeling. Two different locals told us to grab a taxi (ie. back of someones truck) and once at Blue Hole, begin hiking on the coastal trail. Which we did...until we reached the "Egyptian Tourism" policeman, who informed us we had to have "permission" to go further. To make a long story short, we met up with some other hikers and managed to bribe the policeman to allow us to continue. All of which took about an hour...making us very late for our scheduled taxi ride home. We did get to snorkel...and justice was served when we realized that our taxi driver was the deliverer of the Tourism Police's now cold (since we were held up) lunch! HA! On to Amman, Jordan for a night.

Luxor, Egypt

2010-11-30T05:41:00.001-08:00

We arrived in Luxor, the “hassle capital” of Egypt…wow, we didn’t think it could get any worse! The good news is that our beautiful little hotel, El Nakhil, was located on the opposite bank of the river nestled in a palm grove.

We took the ferry across to the Luxor Temple which is right in the heart of the modern town. At sunset the temple is lit up, creating an eerie spectacle as shadow and light play off the reliefs and colonnades.

In front of the temple is the beginning of the avenue of sphinxes that ran all the way to the temples at Karnak 3km to the north. It is currently being excavated…so for 3km you find the remains of sphinxes on sidewalks, in front of shops and along the street.

The next morning our "Dahabiya-mate" Duncan joined us for a bike ride. We decided to bike around the tombs and temples. Here we are making our way up the Valley of the Kings, as quoted in Lonely Planet “the road in is a gradual, dry, hot climb…” Riding a 1960’s one-speed bike in the desert seemed like a good idea at the time. The best part was looking at the faces of all the tourists as they roared by in their air conditioned buses. Envy? I don’t think so, but hey…at least we burned a calorie or two.

Traffic also got hairy at times…..our goal was to NOT be passed by a donkey.

The Temple of Seti I, which was recently restored after being damaged by floods in 1994. In places you can still see color. It is amazing to think what these temples must have looked like brightly painted!

We had so much fun passing donkeys the first day that we decided to try it again. This is the Temple of Hatshepsut, surrounded by limestone cliffs that rise nearly 300m above the desert plain. It has also been designated as one of the hottest places on earth, perfect for an early morning bike ride. Ugh.

More vibrant color. The reliefs are incredibly detailed…Sad to say, but Lonely Planet quoted, “the secretary-general of the Supreme Council of Antiquities has stated that tourism is the greatest threat to the Egyptian monuments, and that if nothing is done they will be destroyed in less than 100 years. “

The Valley of the Queens….no cameras allowed in the tombs, thus no pictures! The tombs have suffered great damage from mass tourism: carbon dioxide, friction and humidity produced by the average of 2.8g of sweat left by each visitor. The inside of the tomb is comparable to a “steam room” and smells like a high school locker room. You move fast.

The Temples of Karnak are an extraordinary complex of sanctuaries, kiosks, pylons and obelisks dedicated to the Theban gods and the greater glory of pharaohs. The Temple of Amun is the largest religious building ever built. This is a picture of the Great Hypostyle Hall which is large enough to contain both Rome’s St. Peters Basilica and London’s St Paul’s Cathedral. The hall has a forest of 134 towering papyrus-shaped stone pillars.

Our last day in Luxor we visited ACE (Animal Care in Egypt, www.ace-egypt.org.uk), a small UK charity dedicated to making a difference to the lives of working animals. We have been traveling for eleven months and have been to over twenty countries...and I can tell you that I have NEVER seen animal abuse like the kind we've seen in Egypt. Definitely my new charity (once I start getting a paycheck again!) On to the Red Sea for some diving!

Dahabiya down the Nile River

2010-11-26T11:45:00.000-08:00

A highlight of any trip to Egypt is a cruise down the Nile. After deciding against the felucca and the "cruiser" we opted for the Dahabiya. These boats were described by medieval historians as lavishly decorated, two-masted wooden boats with private cabins and bathrooms. Perfect for the middle aged couple who has hit their eleventh month of travel! Note the "tug boat" in the picture...most of these boats are actually pulled as sailing can be quite slow.
The top deck...where we wine, dine and generally laze about. The boat also stops at major tourist sites along the way. We were offered a swim in the Nile...but passed. After watching what goes into the Nile...no thanks!
Here is proof of the "lazing"...lot's of naps and book reading. The view is pretty amazing...palm trees, camels, donkeys, birds, villages all drifting past. In the morning we would open up the large window in our room and watch the shore go by.
The Temple of Kom Ombo at sunset. Unique in Egypt, it has dual dedication to the local crocodile god Sobek and Haroeris, meaning Horus the Elder. We raced down there with our "boat-mate" Duncan (from London) to explore.
The reliefs inside are amazing! Some are giant sized. It is a strange feeling being able to reach out and run your fingers over them.
The Temple of Horus, the falcon god. The sandstone temple was buried by sand, rubble and part of the village of Edfu around 200 years ago. Excavation was begun by the mid-19th century. We got to view this one early in the morning...which was ideal. Nice and cool, and less tourists!
The hieroglyphs, meaning 'sacred carvings' in Greek, are the earliest form of writing yet found. More than 6000 hieroglyphs have been identified, although less than 1000 were in general use.

Fun to look at...we would walk along trying to find the most unique character...slugs, snakes, frogs, faces...
We sailed! One afternoon they turned us into the wind and lifted both of the sails. Possibly because the tug boat needed fuel...but it made us happy!
The famous Nile sunset. Seen either from a temple or along the shore...stunning.
Our last morning we awoke to find camels along the shore. One of the local villages has a camel market which sometimes has as many as 2000 camels brought down from Abu Simbel. They are trucked or walked from long distances. Now on to Luxor from more temple-mania!

Aswan, Egypt

2010-11-26T01:18:00.000-08:00

We arrived in Aswan…along the banks of the Nile river. This is the view from our hotel balcony. We could watch the Feluccas sail by and the horse drawn carriages go along the waterfront. A nice transition after the craziness of Cairo and Alexandria.

The Tombs of the Nobles, which date from the Old and Middle Kingdoms. At the top of the hill is the Kubbet Al-hawa, a small tomb constructed for a local sheik.

We found the one “floating” restaurant that serves cold beer (Muslim country…very little alcohol served!) Luckily, they also served delicious food…baba ghanoug, tahini, clay pot stews (tagens), lentil soup. The view of Elephantine Island and feluccas sailing by as the sun set was stunning!

The next morning we went to Sharia as-Souq…a bazaar selling things such as clothing, spices, perfumes, etc. As usual, my favorite thing to see is the food. Hanging meat is always a winner. Keeps me vegetarian.

The souq in all its glory. We got hassled to no end. “Madame….you come into my store???” Our favorite is the “block” where they get in front of you holding some touristy item and won’t let you by. Or the “where are you from?” and when you say America they saw “Obama!”

We took a felucca ride around the islands. The boat goes much slower than you would think….however it is a peaceful way to travel for a few hours. Many tourists take a multi-day felucca ride up or down the Nile. No toilet..and you sleep on the deck on some slabs of foam. Most we passed were packed with people lined up like sardines. At this point in our trip we will have to pass on this form of travel. We have had our fill!

The “cruisers” that stack up along the Nile. There are 270 of these…so many that there is now a moratorium on the launching of new boats. They are like a floating hotel….most have pools surrounded by astro-turf, restaurants, bars…possibly even a casino. Not my cup of tea.

The west bank…you can take a camel to the 7^th-century Monastery of St. Simeon. Having already experienced riding on a camel we declined, but what a great picture!

We had the felucca drop us off on Elephantine island so that we could go to the Aswan Museum…only to find the museum is “closed”. We decided instead to walk through the Nubian villages. In the 1970’s the Nubian lands were drowned when the High Dam was created. They were forced to rebuild their houses on higher ground or move....so two villages now reside here. While wandering around we mostly encountered herds of sheep. Now on to our dahibya boat ride!

Alexandria, Egypt

2010-11-22T00:00:00.001-08:00

We took the train to the city of Alexandria, the ‘greatest historical city with the least to show for it.’ Our intent was to dive the remains of the ancient city, which are now under the Mediterranean Sea. Ironically, we never dove (read poor reviews of the ONE dive shop in town) and our highlight was our time spent with the Hash House Harriers! A small group of wonderful hashers drove us out into the countryside where we ran between fields and saw what no tourist every really sees!

Nothing like encountering a herd of goats, sheep and donkey on your running path! We passed farmers, crossed rickety bridges, jumped across drainage ditches and crawled under irrigation pumps spewing water. I shocked them all by wearing running shorts (women must hide their knees and shoulders…well, and preferably everything else.)

Self photo with a farm horse…also took one with a donkey. I was the official photographer…so had to include myself in a picture! Afterwards we went back to Phil’s (Scottish expat) apartment for a homemade dinner and then on to Dave and Desiree’s (New Zealand expats) for a round of cards. The highlight of the night was throwing paper airplanes off their high rise apartment deck…

The centre of the city arcs around the Eastern Harbor. We spent part of the day wandering around the city…having breakfast at a famous old café, drinking fresh mango juice at the “king of mango” and sipping Turkish coffee (and I mean sipping…strong stuff).

For lunch we headed to Mohammed Ahmed for “fuul”, an unassuming peasant dish of slow-cooked fava beans cooked with garlic and garnished with parsley, olive oil, lemon, salt, black pepper and cumin. Definitely a local hangout…the place was packed…and we were the only tourists. Right up my alley!

That evening we again met up with the hashers. We started with a rooftop Chinese dinner looking over the harbor…and ended with beers at the famous Spitfire bar. We learned so much about Alexandria from our new friends…the good and the bad!

We decided we should be good tourists, and go sightseeing. First stop, Pompey’s Pillar and the Temple of Serapeum. The pillar is a massive 30m column that rises out of the ruins. It is one of the only ancient monuments remaining whole and standing today in Alexandria. The best part is that it is right smack in the middle of a dilapidated neighborhood. One minute you feel like Indiana Jones, and then you notice the flapping laundry on the neighboring patio.

The ironic thing is that my favorite part of the day was our walk between tourist sites. Most people go by tour bus. We passed donkey carts, children playing, and old men smoking their sheesha (water pipes).

The catacombs of Kom Ash-Shuqqafa, discovered accidentally in 1900 when a donkey disappeared through the ground. These catacombs are the largest known Roman burial site in Egypt. This picture shows loculi, the holes in which the bodies were placed.

Our taxi driver took us down streets packed with rabbits, ducks, geese, etc. Some came without fur or feathers if you know what I mean. Desiree told me that she got to witness the recent “Feast of Sacrifice” which as the name suggests includes the sacrificing of animals…and that the streets were running with blood. Glad we missed out on that part. On to Aswan and the Nile river!

Cairo, Egypt

2010-11-19T22:24:00.001-08:00

We arrived in Cairo, Egypt at around 1AM to find the streets packed full of people. Now with a population of 2o million, I suppose that this might often be the case. However, what we didn’t realize is that it was Eid al-Adha, a Muslim holiday "the festival of sacrifice." Which explains why we had such a difficult time finding a hotel room! This is the view from our window. Downtown Cairo is a very dilapidated, dirty city!

The next day we headed for the famous Egyptian Museum. After standing in four different lines and going through metal detectors we made it in. What takes most people half a day to see took the Eisenbrauns a little over an hour. We are not museum people...however, it was fascinating...mummies, the treasures of Tutankhamun, jewelry, statues, death masks etc. all packed into an old dusty building that is literally bursting at the seams.

Cairo does have some beautiful old buildings. We spent a lot of our time wandering the streets of downtown...causing quite a scene. It is almost like the people of Cairo have never seen a tourist before (to be fair, the only ones we saw were in buses). We also sampled some delicious Egyptian foods...chicken shwarma, kushari (a mix of noodles, rice, black lentils and dried onions served with a fiery tomato sauce and garlic vinegar) and felafel.
The Pyramids of Giza. Does this not look like a movie set??? Crazy! The pyramids are smack in the middle of the congested city of Giza. We had a driver (thank goodness) who helped us buy our ticket and get through this mayhem. The locals were literally getting "smashed" trying to get through the gate. When the pyramid "officials" saw us we got right in. We both felt a little guilty about the preferential treatment.
Up close the pyramids look more like a pile of rubble....but impressively large! They are guarded, and have a "do not climb" sign.
We got out in the nick of time, as the locals came in droves to see the pyramids during their holiday. We also got hassled for horse, camel and cart rides. Very distracting as the animals were in VERY poor shape...which was hard for us to see.
Our drive home through the suburbs. Garbage piles on both sides of the canal. We watched a young girl walk out and dump the family garbage can over the side of the bridge and into the water below. Very disheartening.
We noticed that VERY few buildings were "finished." We have since heard two theories. One is that the family keeps "growing"....so if the son marries, they can add a level for him and his family. The other is that if the building is not finished they don't have to pay the taxes on it.
Coptic Cairo is the heartland of Egypt's indigenous Christian community. This is the Hanging Church, as it is built on top of the Water Gate of Roman Babylon. There is also a synagogue within the high stone walls, which explained the metal detectors and guards in full riot gear. On to Alexandria!

Zanzibar, Tanzania

2010-11-17T04:07:00.001-08:00

After 10 days on safari we decided to hit the beaches of Zanzibar. No, this is not a minivan….this is our plane. The smallest one yet this year! No toilet, no stewardess, no co-pilot! Buckle your seatbelts…

We spent one night in Stone Town, recently declared a UNESCO world heritage site. We walked down to the harbor and watched the sun set. The people are exuberant! We watched one group have a bicycle “wheelie” contest in the middle of the street, and another group having a “handspring” contest on the beach.

Zanzibar is a blend of Moorish, Middle Eastern, Indian, and African traditions and architecture. Once again we get to hear the “call to prayer," and I don't get to wear my tank tops (difficult when they make up half your wardrobe!)

The architecture is beautiful. Most of the buildings are white. Many have an Arabic look to them. This is the "House of Wonders."

Many of the bars/restaurants are on the rooftop. The breeze feels amazing, and you can look down upon the labyrinth of alleys below. Particularly fun when the power goes out..which happens a LOT in Africa!

In the morning we walked over to the market. Rows of fresh fruits and vegetables and rooms full of raw seafood and meats. Of course, we happened to notice the disgusting pile of animal skins left sitting in the gutter. Much more interesting!

Zanzibar Island, aka the Spice Island was an important stop in the spice trade centuries ago. We took a “spice tour”, visiting a farm with all the different spices. We learned how they grew saffron, cardomon, ginger, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, etc. In this picture is a seed pod that produces a bright red powder used as a dye.

We also tasted all the different tropical fruits…jackfruit, papaya, mango, pineapple…delicious! Afterwards we were served a traditional Swahili lunch.

We then headed to the eastern coast for three nights at Paje beach. White sand beaches and turquoise waters…most of the time…when the tide isn’t out and the seaweed has been raked up! We had our first ride in a dhow, a wooden canoe. We sailed out to a lagoon to snorkel.

We took a trip out to the Jozani Forest. The Red Colobus Monkey is one of the rarest monkeys in Africa. It is found only in Zanzibar and half of the current population is found in this forest. They are champion sleepers! Laid out in the funniest positions, and they don’t budge, even when you are right below them.

Baby Colobus monkey…Albert Einstein hair, little old man face…adorable. Now on to Cairo, Egypt!

Tarangire National Park, Tanzania

2010-11-11T04:56:00.001-08:00

Boundary Hill Lodge...owned by our safari group. After four nights of camping…this was just what we needed. Each “cabin” has its own private hilltop location…and looks out over the plains of Tarangire. The bank of floor to ceiling windows allows you to watch an incredible sunrise each morning. I think we have found heaven.

Yes…this is the bathroom. Makes you want to drink lots of water. At night, the stars light the room.

This is the first accommodation to get three photos in the blog! Our second patio has a functioning bathtub as well as a private outdoor shower. Oh, and did I mention the fact that everything is solar powered? Luxurious and eco-friendly.

The next day we headed into Tarangire National Park for a game drive. James was quite surprised when we found these, as apparently they are quite rare. I find it amazing that on every single game drive we see something new….

Tarangire is arguably the best park in Africa for elephants with a population of over 3,000. You see them around every bend…but their favorite spot is down by the water.

We sat and watched this group have a pool party. They sprayed mud, flopped down in it, rolled around and generally had a blast! Somehow they avoid sitting on the babies…but barely.

We got to spend a morning in a masai boma. The walls of the hut are made of mud and cow dung…very water repellent. This young girl is one of the wives…they do not get a choice as to who they marry….and it can be a very young girl with a very old man. The more prosperous the man, the more wives he has.

We are sitting on one of the beds, which is a ledge covered with a cow hide. We sat around some coals and talked all about the masai culture with James and a masai warrior that works at our lodge. The boys are circumcised anywhere after about twelve years of age, and can NOT make a face or cry during the procedure. The girls are also circumcised so that they do not “feel pleasure and become prostitutes”.

Dean said that the young girls could not take their eyes off me. Perhaps because I am twice the size of them! They live on a diet of milk mixed with blood, porridge and red meat. If a “warrior” passes through the area and needs a place to sleep he gets one of the beds. He puts his spear across the door so that the husband knows not to come in. Hmmmm. I'll have to try that at home. (Kidding!)

Our last activity was a safari walk. We went with our masai warrior, who would protect us with his spear. Did I mention that each night at dark a warrior meets us at our door with a spear or bow and arrow and a lantern to walk us to dinner? (As we were leaving James told us the reason for the escort after dark- a lion killed a zebra right in front of OUR unit a few years back.) We only saw small creatures and zebra, but had a lion appeared I was ready to witness some warrior prowess. On to Zanzibar! It is beach time…

Lake Manyara, Tanzania

2010-11-11T04:46:00.001-08:00

On our way to Lake Manyara we stopped off to hike the rim of the Norongoro Crater with a ranger. Note the machine gun slung over his shoulder….in case we encountered buffalo, lion or elephant. Hmmm…..He taught us what to do in case we came across said animals. We never did, but now I have some strong life skills. Add that to the old resume. The best part is that we didn’t get attacked by a lion, however I almost got shoved over the rim of the crater by a mating Masai bull and cow. Typical.

A Masai boma. The houses are built by the wives, and made of wood coated with mud and dung. In the middle is a stick fence enclosure for all the cattle. The masai walk with spears in case they encounter lion, elephants or buffalo. All very possible, as many of them live within the National Park.

Our Lake Manyara campground. Easily our least favorite accommodation during the safari. We drove down a dusty 4WD road for an hour only to find a sandy barren wasteland. It was dry season, so the lake had shrunk to miles away. I had the pleasure of showering in the outdoor bucket shower with a fence that went up to my belly button. Leave your modesty at home.

The good news? The sunset was pretty and the stars were out in full force….and we were only there one night!

Lake Manyara…..thousands of pink flamingos and pelicans. When they all took flight it sounded like an airport.

Who can find the small deer-like creature in this picture? I made James back the truck up. “I swear I just saw a gazelle IN the tree!” Turns out it is a “rock climber” that has decided trees are just as fun.

We hit the local market in town to pick up some fruits. I got to look at all the different varieties of bananas…and have tasted them all! We stared at the produce, while all the villagers stared at us! Now on to Tarangire National Park.

Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

2010-11-11T04:28:00.000-08:00

The Masai people are everywhere…driving their cattle and goats, selling jewelry, walking in the village and living in their boma’s (villages). Both men and women wear elaborate jewelry, short hair and colorful clothes. They are polygamous…most men have multiple wives and many children. Our guide told us that one Masai man had 8 wives, 25 children and 45 grandchildren!

The road coming into Serengeti National Park, arguably the most famous National Park in the world. Note the dust coming off of each car….it is like that every time you pass someone! No air conditioning….so windows open. Hard on the lungs and your laundry (especially when you pack light like we do.)

At this point we hit the “Big Five”….we had seen lion, buffalo, elephant, rhino and leopard all by day two. We could go home now….Doesn’t the leopard look comfy? They even drag their pray up into the trees.

This was our highlight of the entire safari. We had tracked a group of lioness as they made their way through the grass. This female then began stalking….and came right by our truck…heading for a group of giraffe. James said that lion rarely hunt giraffe…but she was going to give it a go…alone. While she was stalking we noted that the people in the truck ahead of us were staring at our truck. The second lion had moved forward and was sitting RIGHT behind our truck…with us all innocently looking in the other direction! We could have pet her as she passed by us. The first lion did chase the giraffe….but to no success! (Thank goodness…) Oh, and we caught it all on video!

Our camp for three nights. Incredible….at one point we could see giraffe, elephant, zebra, baboon and buffalo all from where we sat. No fences around us. At night we had all kinds of animals sniffing the canvas of our tent…and lions roaring in the background. Our tent was pretty luxurious…king bed, pit toilet and bucket shower all included. Each night we sat around the campfire naming the various animal sounds we could hear. We also had the pleasure of meeting a great couple from Syracuse, NY to share our adventure with!

Baby giraffe on the camp driveway. The giraffe are very curious, and we could usually get pretty close.

Lion cubs! There was a huge pride of lions on a bluff overlooking a watering hole. We saw them nearly every day. They were the same lions we saw stalking the giraffe. A pride is one big family…lots of snuggling and face rubbing going on.

I think this was taken with night vision...as it was after dark. Another leopard…we were lucky with the cats. We watched this one climb down from the tippy top of the tree and eventually get on the ground. We hoped he would hunt…but instead he got face to face with a hyena! Lots of growling and hissing….and the hyena eventually slunk away.

James said we would be lucky to see one cheetah, we saw SEVEN. We watched these two walk across the grass, scaring all the zebra and gazelle half to death. They then plopped down in the shade to wait for an unsuspecting animal to come from upwind. Sure enough…a herd of gazelle came merrily through the meadow. The cheetah gave the gazelle quite a chase….but ended halfheartedly. James thinks they weren’t very hungry, but typical of cats they can’t let the ball of yarn go by without a swat!

The Serengeti ecosystem is defined by the annual migration of over 1,500,000 million wildebeest, zebras and associated predators. We were lucky enough to witness the very beginning of this migration in this area. Difficult to see in this picture…but those are wildebeest running across the road….and it looked like the line never ended! On to Lake Manyara!

Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania

2010-11-11T04:09:00.000-08:00

We flew into Kilimanjaro, Tanzania after about 24 hours of hard travel which allowed for about two hours of sleep (flights in Africa are not only expensive, but not well thought out). After one night in Arusha at a nice lodge recovering, we hopped in our Land Rover with our guide, James, and started out on a 10 day safari!

We drove for hours passing villages, donkeys, and the Masai people. Bananas! It was not only fun watching them be transported (on bikes!) but also eating them. It’s amazing how good a fresh from the tree banana tastes….

Ngorongoro Crater…a natural amphitheatre created by 600 meter high cliffs and full of an amazing cross section of wildlife. Our first day of game viewing would be in this crater. The white in the middle is soda lake….full of pink flamingo. A remnant of the once volcanic crater.

Zebra…not afraid of us at all! Even with a baby at her side. Herds of wildebeest in the background. The zebra and wildebeest tend to hang out together...safety in numbers.

The Wildebeest herds are huge! The most amazing part is that this is a small herd. Our guide said that in the migration there are millions.

The critically endangered black rhino. We were EXTREMELY lucky to see some. They are being poached to extinction for their horns which are worth more than gold. The horns are used by the Chinese as an aphrodisiac. These animals are so protected, that if they want to leave the crater they are given an escort until they reach another protected park. The poachers are getting more high tech- now using helicopters, darts, guns, etc.

All the safari trucks that arrive when an “exciting” animal is spotted…such as a big cat or Rhino. The guides all have radios and they definitely put the word out! Luckily, this was only the case in Ngorongoro as it is a smaller area.

Our first lion spotting! He basically played “King of the Mountain”….rolled onto his back, slept, surveyed his land. Not a bad life. Turns out the males don’t even really hunt. The female lion is the huntress.

The crater is so picturesque….tall grasses and Acacia trees…and a ton of animals!

A view of the crater from our window at the lodge. We cracked open a bottle of wine and watched the sunset…after a much needed shower. Safaris are a DUSTY affair. On to the Serengeti!

Livingstone, Zambia (Victoria Falls)

2010-11-01T09:02:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Livingstone, Zambia with the intent of visiting Victoria Falls, the Seventh Natural Wonder of the World as well as being a Unesco World Heritage Site. This has been a dream of mine for MANY years, ever since I saw a video of the falls on my friend Tina’s camera! This is our little bungalow at Green Tree Lodge…a property running with bunnies and Guinea Fowl and owned by a Scotsman. Seriously.

Our first night we decided to have cocktails at sunset on the deck of the Royal Livingstone hotel. The hotel is stunning. It shares property with the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park…so on the drive in we passed a herd of Zebra. The mist in the picture above is the edge of the falls.

As the sun set we watched hippo’s play in the Zambezi river. One of their favorite things to do is open wide and yawn! They also make the most unbelievable sounds…very distinctive. They provided entertainment every time a boat went by, as the big male would lunge at it!

The next day we headed to Chobe National Park in Botswana. We decided to do a day safari; boat safari in the morning and land safari in the afternoon. This is the border crossing…the ferry boat can only carry ONE truck at a time. The line of trucks was unreal….some sit there for a week at a time! They are planning to build a bridge…someday.

The boat safari was amazing…we saw birds, warthogs, buffalo, elephants, crocodiles, antelopes (all kinds), hippo’s….One of the most exciting moments was when this herd of Cape Buffalo decided to stampede. They ran along the shore and then into the water…where crocodiles attacked…they then ran back onto shore and got stuck in a huge mud pit. One did not make it out.

We viewed many hippos in the water…and were lucky enough to watch these guys get on shore. They normally only graze at night as their skin is actually very sun sensitive. They do secrete a “sunscreen” from their skin….it looked like big beads of sweat.

We saw herds of elephants..bulls, females and babies. The day before was the first rain of the season, so apparently many of the elephants had left the river with the idea that their waterholes would soon be filled again.

Our land safari was not nearly as interesting…but we did get to drive by the river…it is amazing to see all the different animals living together. In this picture alone there are warthogs, baboons, hippos, antelope and birds.

Victoria Falls! Not what I expected…as it is currently dry season. In the wet season this is all flowing water, however, the spray is so great you can barely see! We were lucky enough to take a tour out to Livingstone Island. This island can only be accessed 6 months out of the year.

We walked out to the very edge of the falls….they lose one person every year over this very edge. Yikes. Our guide kept close watch! One million liters of water fall per second, down a 108 meter drop.

We were lucky enough to be able to swim in the Devils Pool. I had NO IDEA that we would be swimming on the edge of the falls. In order to take this picture, our guide stood on the lip of the falls. You can see the river at the bottom of the gorge. It made my heart pound just watching him!

And then we joined him. You could jump straight into this pool…and swim right up to the edge of the falls. There is a shelf of rock that keeps you from going over….but to the right of us…no shelf. This ranks among the top ten of crazy things we have done this year. Can you imagine anyone letting you do this in the United States? Ha ha! Now on to Tanzania for our 10 day safari!

Kirindy Forest, Madagascar

2010-10-27T00:00:00.000-07:00

Next destination…Reserve Forestiere de Kirindy. Back in the Land Cruiser for another long dusty drive. This time the scenery was not new…ugh. This is our “rustic” bungalow. Actually, nicer than we expected…even had a flush toilet! Pretty good for out in the middle of the woods.

The camp kitchen…big iron pots set over cooking fires. The food was delicious…Zebu kebabs!

We took a night walk before the thunder storm came. Saw many different nocturnal lemurs….very difficult to take pictures! This is a fat-tailed lemur trying his best to “be one” with the tree limb.

Another Sifaka..there are nine species in total. Unlike the Sifaka’s in the Tsingy, these have a black spot on top of their heads. None of the parks “connect”, so normally each animal is only find in that specific region.

The elusive Fosa, Madagascar’s largest predator. They are a “puma-like creature.” Looks like a species of cat…but is actually considered to be part of the fox family. We were lucky to be here during their mating season. We found this male napping next to one of the camp bungalows. While we watched he rolled over on his back and basically lazed about. Ludo said if we got too close he would attack.

A lemur for every tree! These guys descended upon the camp…dangerous with a fosa about. They were hoping for handouts.

All they got was a bucket of water…but this seemed to please them enough! They came down one at a time for a long drink.

The “mother” baobab….the largest around. This one has to be over a thousand years old.

The famous “baobabs in love”….they are either twins, or one tree that was cut while young.

We headed back to Chez Maggie for two nights of relaxation on the beach. This is our sweet little bungalow. Now back to Tana and South Africa…on our way to Victoria Falls!

Manambolo River, Madagascar

2010-10-25T05:00:00.001-07:00

The next morning we again woke at dawn. We would be taking a pirogue (dugout canoe) trip up the Manambolo River. The two pirogues were tied together, and Ludo, Dean and I sat on wooden planks, while our “driver” sat at the back “punting” with a long pole.

The scenery was incredible…the tsingy was on our left and high cliffs on our right. We saw caves, long sand bars, birds, lemurs, butterflies….The rocky walls were amazing. On the paddle home Dean said, “I wonder what would happen if a rock fell.” Not 10 seconds later there was a huge BOOM and a boulder came crashing down the mountain and into the water. Hmmm.

Ludo helped by paddling…going upstream was a tedious process. It took us around five hours to get to our destination. I offered to paddle (dragonboat paddler…come on!) but never got a chance (probably okay since I haven’t paddled in almost a year and the paddle looked HEAVY).

After five hours of sitting on a plank we turned onto a smaller side river that led us to “the pools.” When we reviewed our trip with Ludo he mentioned that very few people make it to the last pool. He said that after the long paddle upriver, people get to the second pool which is soooo beautiful and refreshing that they never want to hike further upriver. Well, the gauntlet had been thrown down…we would make it to the last pool!

AND then we got to the second pool. Come on! No wonder people never leave it! There were multiple waterfalls and pools to swim around in. After swimming you pull out your fish and butter sandwich (delicious as long as you don’t look between the slices of bread and actually see the fish, eggs and all) and laze in the sun.

However, we were not going to give up. We threw on our clothes and began the long climb over boulders and along rocky stream beds. Then the thunder and lightning began….and the pouring rain. I must say though….this was worth the effort!

We only stayed long enough to snap two quick pictures. Dean joked about the directions to this special place, “Fly 20+ hours to South Africa and spend the night, fly to Tana, Madagascar and spend the night, fly to Morondava and spend the night, drive 10 hours over 4WD roads to Bekopaka and spend the night, get on a pirogue for five hours, hike over boulders for another hour and wah-lah!”

Picture #2…worth showing. At this point the rain was pouring from the sky. Rocks + moss + rain = falling down. Everyone got their chance…and it wasn’t pretty. I had a difficult time navigating the rocks without it being slippery. Ludo saved the day by finding me a walking stick…but it was a LONG hike back. Our ride home was a blustery, cold one. We made it in 1.5 hours…which tells you how blustery. I was shaking like a leaf…but hot tea and a warm shower helped!

Dinner! I finally get my chance to talk about the food! This is delicious river fish. Most of the time your choices are fish, chicken or zebu…served with rice or fried potatoes. You soon learn to avoid the chicken…scrawny, rangy looking things….they taste like they look. The Zebu is delicious when served with marinade. The first red meat I’ve liked in a long time.

Grands Tsingy, Madagascar

2010-10-25T04:48:00.001-07:00

The next morning we woke up at 4:30AM to hike the Grands Tsingy, which once gave shelter to the first inhabitants of Madagascar. This tsingy required some climbing equipment for safety. I would also advise that you not be claustrophobic, afraid of heights or obese for that matter….

This is when you pray that there is not an earthquake. I compared it to the Star Wars scene where they are in the trash compactor and the walls are closing in. Ahhhhh! The boulders suspended above your head make it even more fun.

The Grands tsingy is taller and much sharper….very beautiful!

Caves are a wonderful place to take a break and cool down….the tsingy was incredibly hot even in the early morning.

Our rock climbing background came in handy while climbing to the top of the sharp tsingy.

On top of the Grands tsingy with Ludo, our guide. If you ever come to Madagascar we can give you the contact info for the best guide in Madagascar!

One at a time across this bridge…it was a long way down. We later found out that Ludo conquered his fear of heights in the Grands Tsingy. Impressive.

Back down again. Wooden planks and boulders were bolted to the rock to give you something to step on. Most were secure....

As we were hiking out through the forest we came upon a group of brown lemur that were feasting on fruit. We were able to walk right up to them which Ludo said was rare! Three had tiny babies with them.

How can you resist that face? I was sitting right next to them.

We ended our day with a night walk. We were hoping to see the tiny mouse lemur. Dean thought it might be a “snipe hunt” as we stood out in the woods waiting…but alas, the tiny lemur came dashing through the trees! We finally caught him munching on some fruit. Once you shine your flashlight in their eyes they don’t move…probably blinded…poor thing!

Petits Tsingy, Madagascar

2010-10-25T04:34:00.000-07:00

Our first morning we headed to the Parc National Des Tsingy De Bemaraha, a Unesco World Heritage site. It is one of the largest and most spectacular protected areas in Madagascar. Tsingy are jagged, limestone pinnacles. They were formed over centuries by the movement of wind and water. We started on our first day with the Petits Tsingy. Our guide from the park (as well as Ludo) was Rody, who did speak some English.

These spiny trees grow literally right out of the rock….reminded me of a tree in Malaysia that I grabbed onto in the jungle a few times…ouch.

We climbed down into the tsingy….you tread carefully as it is sharp! A definition of tsingy is "tiptoe" as the people who lived within these caves would tiptoe on the sharp rock!

We then climbed up onto a platform above the tsingy. You can see the layers of rock that formed over the years.

Our first lemur spotting! This is the Sifaka. They remind me of little lambs with their wooly white fur and black faces.

Yes, this is the “small” tsingy…can you imagine what the large looks like? It was very “Indiana Jones”….

We descended below the tsingy into some amazing caves. This one looked like a cathedral. Lot's of stalactites and stalagmites.

We were making our way through a pitch black cave with only our head lamps for light…my shoulders were scraping the sides…when I notice this snake coiled up at my feet. I think I did what any smart person would do, and leaped back onto Dean. The guys teased me for my “fear of snakes”…but come on! Turns out it is not poisonous….but I’m glad my survival instincts are strong. We also saw big spiders, frogs, bats and lizards.

The brown lemur….check out the personality in that face!!!! He has to have a name like George or Harold…don’t you think?

At the end of a hot, sticky day of hiking there is nothing better than taking a cold shower and hanging out on the porch with a “Three Horses” beer. Ahhhh.

One of the restaurants we frequented. This little village is right on the river….and by November will be torn down as the wet season comes. They cooked over a fire, and I’m fairly certain they did not have refrigeration (well, if you count blocks of ice). The food was delicious…and luckily our stomachs stayed strong.

Morondava, Madagascar

2010-10-25T04:20:00.000-07:00

We flew to the western coast of Madagascar, arriving in Morondava. We stayed at “Chez Maggie” a hotel on the beach that doubles as a tour company. After nine months of traveling on our own, we have finally succumbed to taking a “tour”. The rough travel combined with our inability to speak much French made us think twice about going it alone. Probably one of the best decisions we have made! We got a 4WD with a driver, and an English speaking "Naturalist" guide (Ludo!) for a six day adventure.

On our way out of town we passed our first Zebu cart. The Zebu (Malagasy cow) indicates wealth and status and are sacrificed during ceremonies. We ate Zebu meat a few times…delicious! We also passed a posse of men carrying spears/guns/machetes tracking their stolen Zebu. At each village they pass, the posse gets larger as men join the hunt. We asked Ludo what happens when they find the thieves and he said, “They kill them.” Huh.

THE ROAD. This is the paved part. It is actually worse than the sand and dirt part. Our driver took us on the side, avoiding the pavement altogether. Then we had to dodge bikes, pedestrians, Zebu carts and other vehicles. Our first day we drove 124 miles, which took us around 10 hours (including lunch stop and two ferries). Our average speed was most likely under 20MPH. No air conditioning…so your sweaty skin is pasted in dust. Good thing there was lots to see on the way!

We stopped at the Avenue du Baobab, one of the most photographed spots in Madagascar. The trees here are as old as one thousand years. Their bulbous trunks store water, allowing them to survive the dry season. They look like something out of a Dr. Seuss book! Ludo mentioned that they appear to be an “upside down” tree….their branches look like roots, while their roots grow long like branches. Sadly, these magnificent trees are being destroyed by the burning of fields as well as the encroachment of rice paddies.

I’ve been in many a “squatter”…but this was my first “drop” squatter. The good news is that we have developed stomachs of steel after nine months of foreign foods. No "Montezuma's Revenge" yet!

Ferry #1. On the way home they combined two ferries together and we had nine cars on it. The ride on the river can take 30-60 minutes…in the nice hot sun!

Everyone had their cameras out for the unloading. You never know when one is going to slip off the planks!

This is the dirt/sand road that took up the majority of the trip…the paved road only lasted 5-10 miles. The good news is that we weren’t in this truck. It looked like it might tip over at ever lurch.

We took a leg stretching break, and all the village kids ran out of the bush to greet us. They followed my every move…I couldn't communicate with them (they speak Malagasy) so we resorted to drawing on the dusty car. I noticed signs of malnutrition (sorry, have to keep my work skills up) and asked Ludo what they eat. They survive mainly on rice and Cassava…very little protein.

The typical village. When we drive past the kids shout “Eau Vive!” which is the bottled water we drink. They want the empty bottles for storage of cooking oil, honey, etc.

We made it! Our last ferry of the day…across the river is the town we would stay in and the national parks we would explore.

Our hotel was much nicer than we expected! This village is only used during the dry season…it is abandoned in the wet season. Our only issue was the “dead animal” that we were told had been removed from underneath our room…however the stench lingered…and lingered. Well…it is the wild west.

Antananarivo, Madagascar

2010-10-24T03:26:00.000-07:00

I will quote Lonely Planet, “Madagascar is a Noah’s ark adrift in the Indian Ocean, an island peopled by seafarers and colonized by the French. ‘Unique’ is almost too simple a word for its creatures, its cultures and its landscapes. Cast adrift from Africa about 165 million years ago, its cargo of strange animals (lemurs and chameleons) and plants (spiny octopus trees and bottle-shaped baobabs) has been evolving in isolation ever since.” We met a world traveler by the name of Harry in Mozambique. When discussing our travels we mentioned that Madagascar was up next, and Harry said, “NOW WE’RE TALKING”. Having been here for only 24 hours I can easily agree with him. Wow. This is true travel.

We flew into Antananarivo (Tana) which is the capital city. It resembles a Mediterranean hill town with an elevation of around 1400m. The total population is about 4 million. Our taxi drive through the dark streets was a “white knuckler.” Our cabbie had no problem driving on the wrong side of the street, occasionally playing “chicken.” The streets were crowded with people, and cooking fires could be seen in the strangest places (the middle of a traffic circle…)

In the morning we took a walk to the Ave de l’Independance to get breakfast at a French café. The languages spoken here are French and Malagasy….very little English. I racked my brain to remember the little high school French I had learned. We walked over to a street market which sold t-shirts, shoes, sunglasses, cell phones, etc.

The locals gambled in the market. You pay money to draw a number out of the barrel…they then shake a number in a can…and if they match, you get to pick from the prizes on the table. Most of the prizes appeared to be cell phones. Wonder how good the odds really are…..

Everything gets carried on the head (admirable)….and we couldn't pass up on this one….a barrel with chicken legs sticking out the top.

Most of the taxis are old Citroens and Renaults. This is one of the nicer ones….WAY nicer. If only we had taken a picture of the taxi we drove in on the way back to the airport. Yikes. I was waiting for tires to fall off as we drove.

The poverty here is unreal. Madagascar is one of the poorest countries in the world, and it shows. We had multiple beggars approach us, usually women with tiny babies and a string of children following them. It was heartbreaking. Their teeth were black with what I guessed to be tobacco and they wore rags for clothing. We had our first pickpocket experience. Two young boys flanked us with ball caps drawn at our hips begging for money. Underneath the ball cap a small hand was opening the pocket to my hiking pants. Lucky for me I grabbed my passport before he did (you have to carry it with you at all times).

The air is clouded with pollution. In this picture you can see how high the hills are (and staircases…ugh) forming a valley.

The one point of beauty in the city is the purple Jacaranda trees.

Many of the buildings were beautiful at one point, but are now literally falling apart. In 1896 Madagascar became a French colony, in 1960 Madagascar gained full independence from France, and in 1975 all ties were severed…the French expats left the country taking with them their skills, money and technology. Now on to the “wild west” of Madagascar….

Tofo, Mozambique

2010-10-15T12:28:00.000-07:00

We flew into Tofo, Mozambique…ran into “travel snafu #3000”….we got onto one plane, and our luggage was put on another. Yes, on purpose. They had two flights going to the same town, one 30 minutes after the other. So our arranged taxi driver got impatient waiting for the luggage to arrive and left. Lucky for us, he did come back, but in the meantime we were panicking about how to get to this small beach town.

The picture above shows the “market” which is the main street of the village. You can purchase fruit, vegetables, snacks and liquor.

That evening we wandered through Tofo….on one side is the ocean and on the other is this wetland. Very beautiful at sunset! We were excited to find a few bars and restaurants, as well as internet café’s (although the internet NEVER worked the entire time we were there…argh).

The view from the deck at our lodge, Casa Berry. Unfortunately our small casita had a view of the dusty parking lot.

Dive boats getting put into the water. Tofo is very well known for diving….manta rays and whale sharks are there specialties! My life goal was to swim with a whale shark…and the best way to do that is to snorkel. So we set off with a boat full of tourists and a guest marine biologist. She would be swimming with the shark to get some data.

Disclaimer: this is NOT our photo...I got it off the internet...we did not have an underwater camera. We ended up swimming with FIVE sharks throughout the two hour time period. The first was a HUGE male (23 feet long), then a young male and a large (and rare…80% seen are males) female. They are the largest and deepest diving fish in the world. I can’t explain what it’s like to swim RIGHT next to an immense yet gentle creature. They are as curious as we are….they approached the boat and gave it a look, and half the time I couldn't get away from them! They would swim right at me…as I desperately back paddled away! Ahhh…happiness.

I titled this photo “Eve biting into the apple”. We decided to take a month off of drinking alcohol. The only issue is that Africa has limited soda and juices. Part of my reason for cutting out alcohol was to be healthy….but drinking high sugar soda and juices isn’t helping me reach that goal. We arrived at this restaurant only to find that they were out of Coke Light…so I rebelled with a margarita. So much for willpower.

This is a chapa….the major mode of transportation in Africa. The credit card machines in town weren’t working (big surprise...the power also goes out every few hours) so we needed an ATM. Turns out the only ATM is 5km out of town. Chapa it is. The ride there was uneventful….but we had noted the chapas coming the other direction were packed to the gills. Sure enough, after waiting on the side of the road for 30 minutes, here comes a chapa with about 15 locals in it. They opened the sliding door and FOUR of us had to stand in the space between the door and the seats. Next time you get into a minivan…check out how much space that is. Now, granted…the sliding door was open….so Dean was able to stick his butt outside…hanging on to the side of the van with his fingernails. (Don’t worry Mom's…we didn’t go THAT fast).

How could I resist? Two of these guys come walking down the main street in their speedo’s, and they did not appear to be heading to the beach. As Lonely Planet says, “Try not to look like a tourist”. Hmmmm…..they have some work to do. Now on to Madagascar! It can only get more interesting.

Vilankulo, Mozambique

2010-10-14T00:56:00.000-07:00

We flew on a small prop plane to the town of Vilankulo, the main gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago. From the plane you could see dusty plots of land with little vegetation and small huts. The drive to our resort was along sandy roads requiring 4WD. The locals were much friendlier than in Maputo! We actually got smiles and waves…..

We stayed at the Archipelago Resort. It is their low season…so we got an ocean view casa that slept six for the price of one room! The place was beautiful…but very much like camping. The rafters were open…so we encountered mosquitoes and other critters. Made for some interesting nights….

The view from the pool/bar/restaurant….We had a similar view from our patio where we spent most of our time. A herd of stray dogs adopted us…so we had friends.

We took a walk on the beach and encountered this woman….shucking shellfish. Obviously this wasn't her first visit to the beach. The pile of shells was enormous.

We rode in the back of a pickup to get into “town” the next day. I felt like the mayor…everyone was waving and calling out to us. Kids gave chase! My only guess is that they don’t get a lot of tourists.

The main town wasn't much…but it did have a paved road! Our casa has a kitchen, so we decided to save money and do some cooking. The grocery store was small, but had a fair variety of supplies from South Africa….that should have been our first clue. The two bags of basic groceries cost around $100!

We took another beach walk while the tide was out. During the day the tide goes out so far that it results in HUGE sands bars. The contrast of turquoise water and white sand is stunning. The boat in the picture is called a dhow…the locals use them for fishing and transport. You can take a dhow “safari” to the archipelago…but under sail it can take two to six hours!

The next day we took a beach horseback ride. The horses were beautiful and very well trained. After talking with our guide, Kate, we discovered that her parents had rescued around 100 horses from Zimbabwe where they were from. The government took over the farms, and the farmers were only able to remove their “personal effects”. Horses were considered an item of the farm. Thanks to Kate’s parents, these horses are now happy and healthy and living in Mozambique!

We went diving with Nicole from Bazaruto Dive at our resort. The trip out to the Archipelago took 45 minutes…and on the way we saw Bottlenose dolphins! They played around the boat while we took pictures.

The Bazaruto….which is a national marine park. On our dives we saw a giant sting ray, 5 turtles, a moray eel, a huge grouper and got to listen to the whales sing!

After diving we had lunch on the Bazaruto…and hiked up a giant sand dune. It felt like being in the Sahara, with blowing sand as far as the eye could see. Now on to Tofo Beach…known for their manta rays and whale sharks.

Maputo, Mozambique

2010-10-08T03:59:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Maputo, Mozambique the “real Africa” as our hotel manager said (South Africa does not count!). Our drive in from the airport showed a city that has seen better times. Garbage everywhere, the smell of cooking fires and lots of people desperately trying to make a living. Interesting, as Lonely Planet quoted “Maputo is easily one of Africa’s most attractive capitals.” (Hmmmm…..)

On the way to our hotel the taxi pulled into a queue of cars waiting for a ferry. We looked at the address we had and realized we were not staying in Maputo. We had been duped by Trip Advisor’s review where someone had stated “Great location!” Depends on if you like taking a 30 minute ferry and walking for another 30 minutes! We told the taxi to move on, and got in the long line of locals waiting to hop on the small dilapidated boat that would take us across the bay to Catembe.

The town consisted of a gas station, a few small stores and stretches of dirt road. We had no idea where the hotel was and it did not appear that anyone spoke English (all Portuguese). Finally a young boy approached us, hoping to get money. In our desperation we mentioned the name of the hotel, and he ran to get the bartender who was on the ferry with us! Akim called the hotel and the 4WD with the hotel manager came and saved the day!

Off the ferry dock women were selling fresh seafood….fish and shrimp….with the occasional fly.

Our hotel was really very nice. The owner had bought what used to be a famous restaurant known for their prawns, and completely renovated it. It was a strange oasis in the middle of a rundown village.

The hotel brochure encouraged “taking a romantic barefoot walk on the beach”….so we did….only not barefoot. Garbage between your toes is not romantic.

The locals fishing boats with the city skyline across the bay in the background.

On our walk home we chose the dirt road. This picture shows one of the many homes that have gone to ruin. Later that evening we talked to the manager, who recently moved to Mozambique from France. He gave us some history. In 1975 the People’s Republic of Mozambique was proclaimed, and the Portuguese pulled out…leaving Mozambique in a state of chaos. Peace was not seen in this country until around 1992.

Catembe is a very basic village, most of the locals come into town to get water and provisions. There are small farm plots, and livestock roaming the streets. The latest news is that the Chinese are going to build a bridge and get rid of the ferry. All of the land is being bought up for future “resorts” and fancy homes. We were lucky to see Catembe as a village.

The next day we headed into the city. There is some beautiful architecture…this is the train station. It was voted by Newsweek as one of the 10 most beautiful in the world. It dates from 1910. It is one of the few buildings that has been kept up.

After surviving a torrential rainstorm we ended up in the Municipal Market. Stalls overflowing with fruits, vegetables and spices. Not necessarily the driest place…note the holes in the ceiling.

We walked most of the city. We almost adapted to the overpowering smell of urine and the garbage piled everywhere. This is a picture of a typical sidewalk. Can’t tell you how many times I tripped. It was a long, tiresome day….and we were more than happy to head back to the quiet village of Catembe….maybe it was a great location after all! Now on to Vilankulo…and the Bazaruto Archipelago for some beach time and diving!

Franschhoek and Hermanus, South Africa

2010-10-04T08:17:00.000-07:00

We celebrated our 1st anniversary (I know, a few weeks late, but the real day was spent jet lagged in Munich) in the gastronomic capital and wine tasting region of Franschhoek, South Africa. Got upgraded to a beautiful attic room in a B&B with a private porch overlooking the mountains.

This (and the previous picture) is the first of four wineries that we hit. All were amazing...we spent hours on this property just looking around. The first was known for it's grandeur, the second it's wines, the third the view and the fourth the underground cave.

The view of the valley. Franschhoek means "French Corner," and has a centuries long history of colonial settlement.

We then drove down to Hermanus...acknowledged as one of the twelve best whale viewing sites in the world, as well as the BEST land based whale watching in the world. This is the world's only whale crier, Pasika Noboba. He patrols the streets blowing his kelp horn and alerting everyone to the whereabouts of the whales.

Whales can been seen from as close as a few metres from the rocky cliffs. We watched this Mom and her baby swim by. The southern right whales population is doubling every ten years. The whale count for Hermanus has risen steadily to around 150 at the height of the season.

We watched them play....they breached (as above), spyhopped (lifting their heads out), lobtailed (slapping their tails), sailed ( lifting their tails clear out of the water) and blowed. There is a 12km-long cliff path that we walked with our camera and binoculars. We could watch them for hours...and even brought a picnic and bottle of wine!

Another popular thing to do in South Africa? Shark cage diving...and who wouldn't?! We spent the first two hours on the boat freezing in the blowing wind....while the crew chummed the waters (note the barrel full of blood and guts above). We were not having any luck...so we moved to the famous "Shark Alley".

SHARK! He loved the "seal" decoy that was set for him. Got his mouth right around it....
Dean got suited up. You put on a wetsuit, mask and weights. No snorkel or regulator...which surprised us. They just have you hold your breath. (Can you hold your breath when screaming? ;)
The shark cage from above with the first victims loaded in. The yellow bobber has two fish heads attached (that were replaced fairly often) and the red line has the "seal" decoy. Getting in and out of the cage is actually fairly frightening, especially when a Great White is flashing through the water inches away. I made sure to get a good foot hold! Once in, you find that the cage is fairly "open"....ie. feet and hands can slip out. Yes, you could pet the shark....but none of us were that stupid (besides...we were told we would get in trouble).

That's me, second from the right...with the white line pointed at my head...and the BIG shark putting his nose into the cage. He could use a good flossing....those were some gnarly teeth.
Dean was in the cage during this one. The guy in charge of the fish head lure had lot's of fun dragging it across the front of the cage with the shark attached. Up close and personal. The sharks did occasionally get in a tug of war...and usually won. We lost the yellow bobber at one point.

This might be the reason for shark alley. It is an island COVERED with seals. I have never smelled anything so bad. A seagull had pooped on me...and I was sure that I was the reason for the stench before I turned my head. Seals piled upon seals...amazing. Off to Mozambique next for some diving with whale sharks (cross your fingers) and amazing seafood!

Cape Town, South Africa

2010-10-03T00:53:00.001-07:00

After a 20 hour flight with stops in Abu Dhabi and Jo’Burg we finally arrived in Cape Town, South Africa! This is the view from our apartment high in the Bo-Kaap hills. The city is flanked by Table Mountain on one side and the ocean on the other, making for some incredible views.

We were steps away from Long Street, known for its shops, restaurants and bars. Unfortunately, it is not considered safe to walk around at night, so we did most of our site-seeing during the day.

We visited the District Six Museum to learn about the forced eviction of some 50,000 people of all races during the 1960s and ‘70s. Their houses were flattened by bulldozers and they were moved to a barren outlying area known as the Cape Flats. The Separate Amenities Act created separate beaches, buses, toilets, schools and park benches. Blacks were even made to carry identity documents at all times.

We decided to “walk” up Table Mountain (ha ha), recommended by a couple we met in Laos. We took a taxi around to the opposite side and hiked up Skeleton Gorge. The name would make sense to us later...

One of the many ladders we ended up climbing, as well as using chains. The hike ended up taking around four hours. We went off trail (as did many others) and at many points I was climbing on my hands and knees. We also ran out of water…lucky for us the top had a “café” for those who took the easy way up (the Cableway).

The top of the mountain was buzzing with ENORMOUS bees! Probably twice the size of a bumble bee. Not sure if they sting or not…did not want to find out!

The water at the top was “tea” colored….almost red. It is stained by the roots of plants. The top of the mountain was like being on the surface of another planet....huge boulders, interesting plants and strange animal life (insects, lizards, frogs, etc.)

The view from the very top….looking over Cape Town and the waterfront. We hiked across the mountain to the Cableway and took the easy way down (after tossing back two huge waters!)

The next day we rented a car and headed for the coast. Made our way to Boulders Beach known for its colony of African Penguins. From just two breeding pairs in 1982, the penguin colony has grown to about 3000. As you can see, you can walk right up to them!

Don’t laugh….they begin moulting in December. So cute.

We then drove down to the Cape of Good Hope. This is Cape Point which is between two major ocean currents with markedly different sea temperatures. You truly feel like you are at the end of the world.

Baboons are commonly spotted. The troops on the Cape Peninsula are the only protected population of this species in Africa. We were lucky enough to see a little guy at the side of the road...

We were very surprised to see huge ostrich walking along the coast! I’m sure Africa has more up her sleeve. On to wine country, whale watching and shark cage diving in South Africa.

Munich, Germany...Oktoberfest!

2010-09-26T09:49:00.000-07:00

Dean and I traveled with Jessi and Tyler to Munich, Germany to celebrate OKTOBERFEST! We arrived early in the morning after a red eye flight and decided the best plan was to keep moving! We took a train to Augsburg, a town just outside Munich, to visit Dean’s friend Manuel. He was the perfect host…starting with beers, traditional Bavarian food and a walking tour of the city.

Unfortunately the red eye flight eventually caught up with us! Luckily Manuel was kind enough to offer up his cozy couch for us to pass out on before we took the train home to Munich. We were like a bunch of zombies stumbling through the streets of Augsburg…

Oktoberfest actually takes place over 16 days in September ….confusing, yes. Over six million people attend. There 14 big tents (holding around 8000 people each) and 20 small tents. It is a carnival, drinking event and foodfest all wrapped into one. We were lucky enough to attend the day the draft horses pulling the beer kegs were presented…and yes, I kissed one on the nose.

The “tents” are absolutely lavish….believe it or not, this tent was put up just days before we arrived. There are huge, clean bathrooms….full cooking facilities…live bands….rows of tables….fireplaces, etc.

And yes….we dressed appropriately! Lederhosen and dirndls…..and we were not the only ones! Locals and tourists alike participated in the tradition.

We were fortunate enough to spend out first day of Oktoberfest with Lars, a good friend of Manuels. He has numerous connections and has spent many years working and playing at Oktoberfest. We toured the various tents…small and large…learned how to pace ourselves with the huge steins of beer, ate delicious foods, and learned drinking songs.

The best part was meeting the locals! Singing songs, swinging beers and wearing authentic lederhosen with all the fixings.

Ah….the food. Mr. Eisenbraun was in heaven. It took the vegetarian/vegans a few days to adjust. By the end of the trip we were all nibbling on bratwurst, pretzels, spatzl, haxe (pig knuckle), shnitzel, etc.

Oktoberfest at night..carnival lights, stumbling drunks, garbage all over the ground….completely entertaining!

Yes, we did do something other than drink beer! During the day we walked all over Munich….saw the Glockenspiel, outdoor beer gardens, the original Hoffbrau house, etc. We also did Mike’s Bike tour…riding for four hours around the sites of Munich.

This picture had to make the cut. One of the tents is famous for its ox….they kept a going tally of how many had been slaughtered (90 oxen on average). We walked up just as they were putting up a fresh ox (not an easy task..they are massive!)…and toasting after!

Our last night of Oktoberfest….we went early to get our own table. Easier said than done. Had to “make friends quick.” We were lucky enough to join these young locals in a night of standing on tables and singing drinking songs! (and yes, for those who know Bruno...he joined us for two nights!)

We spent our last night in Germany in the Alps! Rented a car and drove out to Garmisch-Partenkirchen (say that 10 times). Stayed in a lovely B&B with painted ceilings and beautiful gardens. We hiked up to a restaurant on the side of the mountain.

The top! As our B&B hostess said, “it goes up for a little bit for a long time…but you look sporty” (said in German accent). It was perfect weather, good company and amazing food….just like the entire week! Prost! On to Africa!

Cuba

2010-09-16T09:48:00.000-07:00

There is a bill being considered by U. S. Government that will allow Americans to travel to Cuba so I decided to write an entry into the blog of a trip to Havana Cuba that I would like to do if it were legal for Americans to travel there. I would, of course, NEVER try to travel to a place that my beloved government has banned me from travelling to.

The trip would likely be five days sightseeing in Havana and one day excursion out to an eco-community in the hills outside Havana.

The first day I would just go on foot in and around old Havana “La Havana Vieja”. This part of the city sits at the mouth of the bay of Havana. Original founded by the Spanish as a stopping point for Spanish galleons it was also a major slave trade port. The buildings in this part of the city are very beautiful but like most of Havana have slowly become dilapidated over the last 50 years. They are trying to restore many of the buildings but it’s happening slowly and the extent of the damage and the sheer number of buildings that need restoration is daunting.

Of course, I would visit the Partagas cigar factory. I would not be allowed to take a camera into this factory but here is what the lobby and cigar shop would look like. All buildings, businesses, etc. are government owned so once Fidel took over all the different cigar companies became one. So Cohiba, Montecristo, Partagas, Romeo & Juliet, etc. are all made in this (and other) factories. I would be surprised to learn that, regardless of price or grade, all hand rolled cigars are made by the same rollers with the same outside leaf (the most expensive leaf). It is only the inside tobacco leaves that determines the quality & price. I would try them all and be shocked to find that Partagas was my favorite… I imagine.

I would also visit the Museo Del Ron which is a museum depicting the traditional Rum distillery (complete with multiple tastings). Originally the Bacardi family ran its operation in Cuba but after Fidel’s revolution they pulled up tent stakes and moved to Puerto Rico. Now Havana Club is the main rum of the country (of course, government owned). Most locals drink rum neat (in a glass no ice). Mojitos & Cuba Libres are primarily consumed by tourist only. One mixed drink that the locals do occasionally drink is a mixture of liquid cane sugar and rum. (I don’t know the name of it).

If I were there in August then the days in Havana are hot and balmy. To cool off I would imagine that most evenings during my stay I would want to grab a HUGE Cuban cigar (considering they only cost about $8 US there) and some Buccaneer beer and join the locals on the Malecon. The Malecón is a broad esplanade, roadway and seawall which stretches for 8 km along the coast in Havana, Cuba, from the mouth of Havana Harbor in Old Havana to Vedado. Locals sit and just “hang out” from early evening to late at night all along this area.

The last day there I would probably head out of town to get a view and experience the Cuban countryside. There is an old coffee plantation that has been converted to a sort of eco-resort. Here I would be able to learn a little about rural life in Cuba as well as do some canopy zip-lining. Another added bonus to this trip would be that I would be able to ride the one hour bus ride there and back sitting next to a Cuban law student, who speaks perfect English, and get an interesting perspective on Cuban life, Government, and her view of the United States… I imagine.

From my reading of Cuba it seems like a very beautiful place with very wonderful people. I sure hope the U.S. lifts the travel ban someday so I can go there and do all these things.

Dubrovnik, Croatia

2010-08-14T06:59:00.001-07:00

The grape covered patio of our apartment in Dubrovnik. Almost every house has "sobe" (rooms available). We were lucky enough to get 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, a TV room and a kitchen...plus a great patio all to ourselves!
Our walk to "old town"...which we did up to four times per day. As the apartment owner said, "It's only two minutes away!" Ummmm....yeah....that's going DOWNHILL. I think there were over 10 sets of staircases.
Old town is incredible....a walled city with marble streets and baroque buildings. Touring the city you can see a drawbridge, fountains, churches, museums, a clock tower, and palaces. Then there is the shops, restaurants, gelato stores and masses of people. We could only go to old town for short periods of time before developing "crowd rage."
In 1991 Dubrovnik was pummelled with some 2000 shells in the war that ravaged former Yugoslavia. The damaged buildings have been restored..but you can still see evidence.
We took a ferry to Lokrum Island, a Unesco protected national park. Hiked out to a point where you can see the walled city of old town.
We found the perfect swimming spot...even came back the next day with a picnic and a bottle of wine.
We took a walk on the city walls. The walls were built between the 13th and the 16th centuries. The entire old town is contained within a curtain of stone over 2km long and up to 25m high. Each side is protected by a fort or tower.
A bar on the outside of the city walls. People jump off the rocks and swim...and many stay there the entire day!
The clock tower has two bronze figures that ring out the hours on the bell. The old harbor is outside one of the city gates.
A view of old town from high on the wall. Many of the buildings are homes. We saw laundry hanging, private gardens and even two basketball courts. You can see Lokrum island in the background.
We took a long ferry ride out to Mljet Island....half of which is a national park. Most of the island is covered by forests and the rest is dotted with fields, vineyards and small villages. We rented bikes and spent the day exploring. This is one of two lakes that are connected to the sea. The waters vary between green, blue and turquoise. Very beautiful! Now back to the United States for a visit...then on to leg three....the last leg! Munich (Oktoberfest) and Africa.

Korcula Island, Croatia

2010-08-10T11:03:00.001-07:00

We took a very nice ferry (sat in a lounge with a floor to ceiling window next to us) and a not so nice bus (not enough seats…big “bus brawl”) to Korcula. Our Italian friends that we met in Turkey recommended Korcula for the AMAZING olive oil. Enough said. We were pleasantly surprised to find that it was also gorgeous…the marble streets are dotted with Renaissance and Gothic architecture. The walled old town has two large towers and cradles a harbor.

We got a top floor apartment right in the middle of old town. The narrow walkways hid small restaurants and shops, and were usually framed by laundry swinging from above!

In the center of old town is St Mark’s Cathedral, a 15^thcentury cathedral built in a Gothic-Renaissance style. The bell tower still rings loud and clear…especially at 6am this morning…ugh.

The entrance to the old city is through the Veliki Revelin Tower. There was originally a wooden drawbridge, but it was replaced in the 18^th century by stone steps.

The next morning we rented bikes and headed along the coast to the small town of Racisce. The ride was along the coast..we passed bright white houses, sailboats, olive groves and vineyards.

We could not resist the turquoise waters…and found a steep trail down to a stone beach. The cold water was refreshing! Also enjoyed some snorkeling..although not much to see.

Passed a family run restaurant on our ride back. Dean was blessed with good ordering karma….incredible grilled scampi. All with an ocean view.

We rode for about 5 hours…great way to really see the island.

Our favorite bar in Korcula…it is lodged in a turret and accessible only by ladder. Thank goodness for the “skort.”

The view from the top. Korcula is also known for windsurfing…it is incredibly windy! Great place to watch sailboats and windsurfers fly by, not to mention the sunset.

Our ferry to Dubrovnik. Looks nice, huh? We have discovered that every OTHER bus or ferry in Croata is nice. This is the not so nice ferry. We sat by the dance floor under a “black light.” I think it was a decommissioned cruise ship. Hundreds of people with no place to sit. Bodies and luggage strewn throughout…in every hallway, staircase, nook and cranny. Only three hours to go…!

Split, Croatia

2010-08-08T00:17:00.001-07:00

We arrived in Split…the second largest city in Croatia. A beautiful harbor town with a backdrop of dramatic coastal mountains. We booked a tiny studio apartment right in the center of Diocletian’s Palace.

The palace as it once was…the Roman emperor Diocletian’s retirement palace. It is now a Unesco World Heritage site and one of the world’s most impressive Roman monuments. The walls currently surround dozens of bars, restaurants and shops.

The view from one of our apartment windows. Another old town full of marble pathways and stone buildings. Easy to get lost in…and we did!

The old Riva (seafront) steps away from the palace walls. At night it becomes a mass of people…with music playing and street performers gathering crowds.

The reason we shoved earplugs into our brains and took sleeping pills each night! This is the view from our front window….three bars…bass pumping…until 2am. A great place for a nightcap. Amazing people watching…but the cigarette smoke might kill you.

In the morning we left the crowds behind and hiked up Marjan Hill. The Croatian “Forest Park.” The view of central Split and the harbor below.

We hiked along a gravel path with amazing views of the surrounding islands and blue waters of the Adriatic Ocean.

A “hermitage” built into the cliffs set next to a small stone chapel. Meters away we could see climbing routes and chalk marks. Fantastic place to go climbing!

The walls of the Palace. Each wall has a gate named after metals…Golden Gate, Bronze Gate, Silver Gate and Iron Gate. There are 220 buildings within the palace boundaries and it is home to about 3000 people.

We finished our visit with a walking tour…exploring the statues, Temple, Cathedral & Romanesque belfry (shown above) and the eerie basement halls below. Now on to Korcula Island, known for its vineyards and olive groves.

Sibenik, Croatia

2010-08-05T23:21:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Sibenik...Our apartment was in the center of old town, a labyrinth of marble walkways, old churches and limestone buildings.

The view from our apartment patio...we spent an evening out there listening to the sounds of the neighborhood. The Croatians talk very much like Italians...you can´t tell if they are angry or jovial!
The Cathedral of St James, a World Heritage site. It has a frieze of 71 heads on the exterior wall that convey every expression of human emotion. It is reputed to be the world's largest church built completely of stone without brick or wood supports.
Lucky for us, the cathedral was only steps away from our apartment....and right on the harbor.
The harbor at sunset. We climbed up a maze of tiny back streets and staircases to an old stone fortress. The fortress was closed...but the ancient cemetery wasn't! Spooky at dark, especially with the lit candles and yowling cat...but gorgeous view of the town below.
The morning of Dean's 40th birthday we headed out to the remote, peaceful (ha ha) Krka National Park famous for it's waterfall. If you can find a space, you can even swim! (Waterwings not included...)
We walked a series of wooden "boardwalk" trails around the falls, elbowing our way through the crowds.
Turns out August 5th is not only Dean's birthday, but a Croatian holiday! All these people came out to celebrate with us.
We decided to veer off course...grabbing prosciutto sandwiches and beers...and heading down a seldom used road for a 45 minute walk back to town. A great way to avoid the crowds and see some beautiful scenery.
Back in town...we found vino served by an old Croatian woman who did not speak a lick of English! She served her wines from old re-used glass bottles of various shapes and sizes. Absolutely delicious!
The old town of Skradin was very picturesque. We walked the streets finding such treasures as coconut gelato and espresso to help kick off our celebratory night!

The view from our dinner table....we ate right on the square. Had papparadle with sheeps cheese, proscuitto, and basil....and a mouthwatering steak. (Croatians love their meat!) We were treated with a complimentary birthday drink of homemade dessert wine "made from small flowers". Delicious! Now on to Split..further down the coast of Croatia.

Opatija and Zadar, Croatia

2010-08-03T11:56:00.000-07:00

We took a bus to the old Austrian resort town of Optija. During the Austro-Hungarian empire this was one of the most fashionable seaside resorts for the Viennese elite. Between the world wars the villas went into decline…but they have recently been revamped. The hotel we booked with upgraded us to their 5 star hotel. We had booked the "economy" suite..which ended up being the "living room" of a suite...so we slept on the pull out couch! The view was incredible.

The old villa's have so much "fluff." I compared this one to a lemon meringue pie!
We spent all day walking the Lungomare, a shady promenade that winds along the sea for 12km. We passed plush villas, beautiful gardens and amazing spots for a swim.
Unfortunately it is high season in Croatia. The Optija Riviera attracts numerous Italians and other Europeans. There are bronzed bodies on every rock surface and path...you literally have to step over them. I equated it to a bunch of seals lolling in the sun....
We spent one night in Zadar to help break up the long bus ride. Thank goodness we did...our 5+ hour bus ride had no air con and we managed to hit a car along the way. The cities old town follows the old Roman street plan, and is made mostly of marble. It is walled in, with four old gates, one of which is shown above.
The town is full of museums, churches and monuments. Above is the town watchtower.
We wandered the back streets and found a konoba (simple family run restaurant). I had a delicious ink fish risotto and Dean feasted on sausage with German mustard.
We also visited the world's only Sea Organ....a system of pipes and whistles set within the perforated stone stairs that descend into the sea. It exudes wistful sighs when the movement of the sea pushes air through it. Very bizarre! Next to it is the Sun Salutation...a 22m circle cut into the pavement, filled with 300 multilayered glass plates. The plates collect the sun's energy during the day that produces a light show at night! Now on to Sibenik for Dean's 40th birthday celebration!

Pula, Croatia

2010-08-01T10:14:00.000-07:00

We got on a ferry that would take us from Venice to Pula, Croatia. The only seats left on the ferry were in the front row. As we sat down I noticed a sign that said “We recommend that you buckle your seat belt if you are seated in the front row.” Yeah right. Changed my mind quickly when we hit the first enormous wave and I flew three feet in the air, crashing down with my elbow on the metal armrest. Spent the next THREE hours belted firmly in with my feet braced against the wall…desperately clinging to the armrest. At about 30 minutes into the trip the air con appeared to go out, the room got unbearably hot and the barfing began. I would estimate that 90% of the boat used a barf bag. Needless to say, we were happy to reach land in Croatia…an hour late and exhausted beyond belief.

The view from our patio. The coast of Croatia is beautiful….pebble beaches, olive trees and the smell of pine in the air.

A 1^st-century Roman amphitheatre overlooking the harbor. It had seating for up to 20,000 spectators and was designed to host gladiatorial contests. They still use it every summer for plays and concerts.

A scary Croatian man who posed for pictures in his gladiator costume. He was no Russell Crowe.

The Triumphal Arch of Sergius in Old Town. The town was surrounded by walls and a city gate that were later pulled down to allow the city to expand. Old Town is full of shops, cafes and restaurants. A great place to grab a latte and watch the crowds go by.

The ancient Forum, the towns central meeting place. The only remnant left from the Roman era is the Temple of Augustus.

The coast is a very popular holiday destination. You can dive, snorkel, sail or just lay in the sun. We intend to do some of that in the coming weeks! Now on to the old Austrian resort town of Opatija.

Venice, Italy

2010-07-31T01:19:00.001-07:00

We decided to veer off our itinerary and spend two nights in Venice, Italy! Conveniently, there is a ferry from Venice to Croatia…which was our planned destination. Our hotel was built in the 1400’s and owned by a famous painter. It is right on the Grand Canal, in a quiet back alley. The window of our room is in the lower right hand corner.

Our basement room…a bit musty…but fitting for a house built in the 1400’s. We could hear the water lapping at the window sill.

Gondola’s everywhere! At 80 euro for 30 minutes you can see why! We chose to watch the beauty of them from afar!

The busy, busy Grand Canal. On the left you can see a “bus”. This was our mode of water transportation. We would grab a seat on the back “deck” and watch the world go by.

The houses are beautiful..lots of leaded glass and intricate iron work. Note the metal “braces”…they are put into the buildings for reinforcement. They are the ends to a long rod that runs the entire length of the building.

To me the most stunning part of Venice is all the little back alleys. The waterways with their small bridges and boats. We spent most of our time just wandering….usually lost! Venice is truly a maze. Even with a map you are doomed.

View of the Grand Canal at night from the famous Rialto bridge. Venice is extremely touristy. Our favorite moments were early in the morning or late at night…when all the people had left. This spot was crawling with people a few hours before.

Gargoyles! They are peeking out from everywhere….

St Marcos Square. We got up early and beat the crowds! Only pigeons to fight off.

I just like this picture….a winged lion in St Marcos Square. This is the ceremonial entrance to the city. Now on to Croatia!

Cappadocia, Turkey

2010-07-26T06:58:00.001-07:00

We arrived in Cappadocia...after a bus/plane/taxi/hotel/taxi/bus.....it was that or the dreaded overnight bus..no thanks. We stayed in the Kismet Cave Hotel in Goreme. Our room was not an actual cave room...but we did get to peer into them. You can see the cave looming over the back of the property.
Beneath the honeycomb cliffs of Goreme, the locals live in fairy chimneys. The fairy chimneys were formed when erosion wiped out the lava covering the tuff (consolidated volcanic ash), leaving behind isolated pinnacles. They can reach up to 40m high, have conical shapes and are topped by caps of harder rock resting on pillars of softer rock. It makes for the most incredible landscape! I could barely walk through town without tripping on something because I kept looking up!
I'm pretty sure the Flintstones lived here....Fred? Barney?
Goreme Open-Air Museum was first an important Byzantine monastic settlement that housed some 20 monks, then a pilgrimage site from the 17th century. The fresco filled "Dark Church" was named due to that fact that it originally had very few windows. The lack of light preserved the frescoes vivid color. You had to pay extra to get into the Dark Church...and it was well worth every penny (or lira). We were the only ones in it! Blissful peace from the throngs of tourists outside.

Cappadocia is surrounded by valleys that you can hike in. Rose Valley, White Valley, Love Valley...all stunning.
At the end of the day we hiked up above Goreme. We drank a bottle of Cappadocian red wine while watching the sun set over the fairy chimneys. The hair raised on our arms when the call to prayer echoed across the valley. So eerie!

This is Pigeon Valley, filled with colorful dovecotes. The pigeon houses peppering cliffs and fairy chimneys where traditionally used to collect the bird's droppings for use as fertilizer. The valley is filled with flying pigeons.
The underground city of Derinkuyu. During the 6th and 7th centuries, when Persian and Arabic armies set off to vanquish the Christians, beacons were lit and the warning could travel from Jerusalem to Constantinople in hours. When the message reached Cappadocia, the Byzantine Christians would escape into secret tunnels leading to vast underground cities. This particular one was thought to hold 10,000 people and had over seven levels. We saw stables, churches, ventilation shafts, granaries, a blackened kitchen, and wine rooms. Not for the claustrophobic.

Ihlara Valley..a favorite retreat of Byzantine monks, who cut churches into the base of its towering cliffs. The entrance down has 360 steps. We walked along the river at the bottom.

The restaurants at the end of the gorge had river platforms that you could dine on and tables submerged in the water. Nothing like having a nice frog between your toes while sipping your soda.
Selime monastery has a vast kitchen with a soaring chimney, a church with a gallery around it, and stables with rock-carved feed troughs. It looked like something out of Star Wars!
The church, with intricately carved walls. There were once frescoes, but the smoke has long since blackened them.
Uchisar Castle...a tall volcanic rock outcrop riddled with tunnels and windows. We could see this in the distance above Goreme. Again...very Star Wars! Back to Istanbul for a few days of travel planning....then on to Venice!

Gulet Cruise, Turkey

2010-07-23T03:05:00.001-07:00

We embarked on a three night “gulet” trip….sailing around the 12-islands. The ironic part is that our boat doesn’t really sail. It had a jib, and two masts without sails…so we motored around the islands. We each had our own cabin and small bathroom. The beds became more of a luggage rack as it was too hot to sleep downstairs!

A passing gulet…difficult to take a picture of your own boat! They are beautiful…and quite large. Ours slept twenty. It also had a large kitchen, eating area and lots of place to lounge.

The twelve islands in the distance. The weather was gorgeous and the waters were crystal clear.

Our bed each night! We would drag up our linens and pillows and fall asleep under the stars. Of course we would also wake up to the sun rising. Naps became an important part of each afternoon. Our second night we moored in a cove that was less than calm. The boat pitched back and forth all night…you had to stick a foot out to prevent yourself from rolling off the mat!

During the day we would explore different coves. We could swim, snorkel and hike. A group of us climbed up the mountain to this stunning view. Our boat was in the water below. A hot hike, but well worth it!

The food was incredible. On the barbeque for this particular night was meatballs (Dean says he could eat them every day for eternity) and chicken. We also had whole fish, prawns, and calamari (all in one meal). Lunches were always vegetarian…bean dishes, pasta, vegetables, salads….yum!

The entire gang. There were a bunch of 30-something girls (from Australia and the UK), a family from Holland, two couples from Australia, and a New Yorker. Great mix of people…we got along wonderfully! Swam together, played cards, read our books, and had long conversations.

Snorkeling….we explored every cove. Never really saw much…the water is very clear…but it looks like the surface of the moon! Usually found small fish, crabs, an occasional starfish, and some sea anemones.

Our last night. The sunsets were magical and enhanced by the beautiful ships sailing around us. We were lucky to make many new friends from around the world. On to the magical fairy chimneys and caves of Cappadocia!

Fethiye, Turkey

2010-07-23T02:02:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Fethiye..and I learned a very important lesson. Never book your travels when you are sick! We book our travels literally the day before we leave for the next country. It is a long day of planning, reading and internet time. I had a difficult time finding a mid-range place to stay in Fethiye…and finally gave in…what could be wrong with Calis Beach only 5K away? Let’s see….the 20 minute (or longer) packed minibus ride with no air-con for starters. Then there is the fact that the beach is a combination of Ocean City and Seaside. It is a “narrow stretch of gravel beach lined with mass-produced hotels and British retirees” according to Lonely Planet. Oops…missed that quote.

The good news is that the sunset off the rooftop of the hotel was magnificent! This is a view of the islands we would soon be sailing around.

Tombs carved into the sheer rock façade in 350 BC.

We took a minibus out to the town of Kayakoy, an eerie town of 2000 stone houses. It was deserted by its mostly Ottoman-Greek inhabitants after WWI and the Turkish War of Independence. The League of Nations supervised an exchange of populations between Turkey and Greece. As there were more Ottoman Greeks than Greek Muslims, many of the Turkish towns were left unoccupied.

We wandered through a beautiful church with black-and-white pebble mosaic floors, and explored many of the houses.

We ended our explorations at the Levissi Garden, a 400 year old stone building that has been a horse stable and the home of the mayor. It is now a stunning wine house and restaurant. We asked for a tour of the impressive wine cellar which has over 400 Turkish wines. Even got in a little tasting.

Had lunch and a glass of wine on their patio, overlooking the stone houses on the hill. Now on to our gullet cruise….three nights under the stars!

Bodrum, Turkey

2010-07-18T11:20:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Bodrum, a harbour town with the look of Greece....whitewashed houses and subtropical gardens. We followed a blue mosaic down a tiny alley to find the gate to Su Otel!
Our room had a poolside patio that we used for our typical travel picnic....wine (Turkish!), olives, cheese, hummus, simet, and fresh fruit.
The marina is full of multi-million dollar yachts and high end restaurants. We enjoyed a rooftop dinner and watched the sunset. This is a party town....our waiter told us of a bar called the Catamaran...you get on an actual Catamaran and it goes out into the harbour. A speedboat takes you back once you have finished dancing and drinking the night away!
The view from our dive boat as we left the harbour. The Castle of St Peter was erected in 1437 by the Knights Hospitaller. It has moats, water cisterns, towers and a dungeon. It currently contains the Museum of Underwater Archaeology.
Bodrum is known for "wreck" diving. On our second dive we were able to swim around this 1940's era plane. You could even swim through it! (Disclaimer- this is not our photo...Dean got it off the internet...we wish we had such a camera!)
The next morning we headed to the castle to view the museum. Turns out our dive master is a rather well know underwater archaeologist! He was involved in the excavation of the 14th century BC Uluburun, the oldest excavated shipwreck in the world.
A display of amphorae- the castle owns one of the largest collections in the world. Some our from the 14th century, and all were recovered from the waters of southwest Turkey.
View of Bodrum from the castle tower. You can see the whitewashed buildings, turquoise waters, and GIANT yachts. Now further down the coast to Fethiye!

Ephesus, Turkey

2010-07-16T07:30:00.000-07:00

Hotel Bella....friendliest hotel we've been in! The hotel is full of Turkish antiques, rugs, ceramics..beautiful. They drove us everywhere we wanted to go, and helped plan our days.
The view from the rooftop patio...where we ate many of our meals, lounged around and smoked the water pipe! (Apple flavor!)
View of the storks nest and the hilltop citadel. The storks fly from Africa in the Spring, lay their eggs and fly back with the kids in the Fall. This nest has five youngsters that were just learning how to fly. Mom and Dad still do all the hunting. Mom brings back the water, and Dad the fish. We watched them feed...very entertaining while drinking a glass of wine or eating dinner!
We drove out to the tiny village of Sirince passing grapevines, peach and apple orchards. We were charmed! We tasted their famous fruit wines....peach, apricot, blueberry, melon, raspberry, cherry...all served in little shot glasses!
The streets are narrow and cobbled. At one point I was standing next to a pile of rubble that "whined", out popped three of the most adorable stray puppies. We met momma later and gave her many well deserved pats. Would have given her a steak dinner if I had one!
The stone and stucco houses with red roofs. We had a delicious lunch with white beans, stuffed pumpkin flowers, yogurt with cucumber and mint, and dolmasi (stuffed vine leaves).
The next morning we got up early to beat the heat and headed to the famed Ephesus, the best preserved classical city in the easter Mediterranean. It was a great trading city and a centre for the cult of Cybele, the Anatolian fertility goddess.
We passed gymnasiums, churches, baths, a great theatre, marketplace, fountains, temples, and numerous gates.
The most interesting part was the "Terraced Houses." They have been covered by a huge "tent" so that workers can continue to excavate. They are literally piecing together a giant puzzle.
Beautiful frescoes cover the walls and elaborate mosaics cover the floors. These were wealthy people!
The Library of Celsus. It held 12,000 scrolls in niches around its walls. A 1m gap between the inner and outer walls protected the valuable books.
That evening we went across the street from our hotel to the Basilica of St John. St John is said to have come to Ephesus twice, once with the Virgin Mary and towards the end of his life when he wrote his gospel. It was a heap of rubble and has now been restored...as well as a heap of rubble can be! We are "ruined" out..now off to the resort town of Bodrum.

Istanbul, Turkey

2010-07-13T23:26:00.001-07:00

The view from our hotel window. We are steps away from all the big sights…Blue Mosque, Aya Sofya and the Topkapi Palace. Istanbul is a maze of cobbled streets. They drive like maniacs…so you best be quick on your feet! We walked past food carts selling roasted corn cobs, chestnuts, simit (sesame-encrusted bread ring) and fresh fruits. The touts do their best to talk you into their establishments.. “Turn left here!” “You cannot refuse me!” We quickly learned which streets to avoid!

The Grand Bazaar. You could spend days wandering around these halls! There are over 4000 shops selling carpets, belly-dancing costumes, copperware, leather goods, fabric, gold, silver jewelry, antiques, colorful lamps, musical instruments…and much more!

We took a ferry down the Bosphorus strait. I would have more pictures…but my foggy, jet lagged brain allowed me to delete them all that night. Yes…argh. The Bosphorous runs from the Sea of Marmara to the Black Sea. One shore is Europe and the other shore is Asia. We passed amazing palaces, yachts, mosques, palatial residences and fish restaurants.

The next morning we headed over to the Blue Mosque. There are numerous mosques in Istanbul (which makes for an incredible skyline) but this is one of the most famous. The courtyard is the biggest of any Ottoman mosque.

The interior has 260 windows, and the central prayer space is huge. I had brought a shoulder wrap and a skirt that covered my knees, but still had to add a wrap that reached the floor. A head covering was not required.

Aya Sofya…”church of the divine wisdom” which is across from the Blue Mosque.

The streets surrounding the Grand Bazaar. A crush of different cultures…Greeks, Europeans, Muslims in full burka’s…we just enjoyed walking around.

The Spice Bazaar…you could smell it before even entering! Spices, nuts, honey-comb, olive-oil soaps, figs, Turkish delight….heaven!

We ventured into the cool depths of the Basilica Cistern in the afternoon. The cistern lays beneath one of the great squares, and was used to store water for the Great Palace. It was forgotten until 1545 when locals discovered they could miraculously obtain water by lowering buckets in their basement floors! As you walk through water drips from the vaulted ceiling..and you can see ghostly carp swimming by....
Our last night we took a train and tram to Beyoglu...the neighborhood was strung with lights and full of action! We had an incredible dinner...eggplant meze, sea bass wrapped in chard, spicy meatballs, etc. We then found a rooftop bar with views of the city. Now on to the remains of a Roman city in Ephesus!

Perhentian Islands, Malaysia

2010-07-11T03:15:00.001-07:00

To get to the Perhentian Islands we had to take two planes, a taxi and a boat. All in all a very long travel day. The islands are very Muslim..thus alcohol would be difficult to find. Before getting on the boat we asked where in town we could find a liquor store. We were told “Chinatown.” After wandering Chinatown in the heat with all our luggage, we asked again, and were told the “Chinese pharmacy.” The shop owner scrounged around and found us a bottle of gin and a bottle of whiskey! Success!

We arrived at Bayu Dive Resort…we each had little bungalows that reminded me of camp. Even had gingham bedspreads. We sat out on our porches, had cocktails and watched "gecko vs. bug" each night. Reminded me very much of the Cook Islands!

It was a fairly quiet beach…white sand, turquoise waters. Tide went way out at night so all the boats were grounded. Bats swooped down on us each night at dusk...and the stars were very bright!

Our first day we decided to take the “Jungle Track” over to the other side. We hiked for about 30 minutes to a beautiful beach, and spent the afternoon snorkeling and having lunch. We saw a huge variety of fish…and even saw a shark!

On the jungle hike the tree’s started rattling and we saw a group of monkeys. A few had ginger colored babies with them. We also saw giant ants, frogs, and monitor lizards.

The Monitor lizards got bigger every time we saw one. This one was HUGE. It was like the troll hiding under the bridge. He kept flicking his tongue at us…and giving us the eye. Yikes. We watched him until he disappeared into a huge sewer pipe. We watched our step from then on.

The next morning we went diving/snorkeling with our resort. Malaysia is a beautiful place to dive...we may have to come back someday.

Our last night we did another jungle trek across to a different beach. Much steeper and the trail was covered in vines. We felt very Indiana Jones! Had a nice dinner...and real cocktails! Pina Colada's and Margarita's....Jeff and Sarah head back home to Portland...and we now head to Turkey! We are ready to move on to something new!

Singapore

2010-07-07T04:08:00.001-07:00

We only had one day in Singapore…and boy did we fill it up! Started with the Singapore “Flyer”….very much like the “Eye” in London. A huge “observation wheel” that turns slowly, allowing you to see the entire city from up in the sky.

The city is beautiful! Very clean compared to the cities we have been in. Lot’s of parks and manicured gardens. They are preparing to host the Youth Olympics as well as a Formula One Race downtown.

After the Flyer we got on a “Hop on Hop off” bus and toured the city. We had seen this building from the Flyer. It is three 55-storey hotels that includes a casino and a huge rooftop garden. Very impressive to look at!

Singapore is known for its shopping districts. I have never seen so many malls in my life! Too bad none of us like to shop. We walked through them to cool down (air con!) and ate lunch in what would be considered a “food court” in the U.S. The Asian “food court” is amazing….not exactly the Orange Julius, Long John Silvers, or Happy Panda we have to suffer through back home.

We went to the Raffles “Long Bar” where the Singapore Sling was first created. We spent $30….yes….$30 PER Singapore Sling. Our quote was “when in Rome”…us and all the other tourists filling the bar!

We were also told we had to do the Singapore Night Safari. We were unable to take pictures of the animals because the camera flash spooks them. Unfortunately, that didn't stop all the other ignorant tourists from using their flashes. We saw a huge variety of animals- Rhino, tigers, lions, leopard, tapir, ant eaters, zebra, giraffe, etc.

We had a late dinner at "No Signboard Seafood." The restaurant started as a small stall at a market. It did not have a signboard...thus got it's name. It was delicious...we had black pepper crab, scallops, seafood fried rice, and a clay pot beancurd dish.
Hotels in Singapore are incredibly expensive. Budget is considered less than $100/night. We found a place for $45/night....the reason for the price? It is in the red light district. You wouldn't even know during the day. We did notice that the mattress had a plastic cover on it...and they did have an hourly rate...We took a walk after dinner and watched Dean and Jeff get whistled at. Our street was lined with brothels...they did not have doors on them...just little walls to cover the entrance. It was entertaining to say the least. Off to the islands for some R&R!!!

Kuching, Malaysia

2010-07-07T03:55:00.001-07:00

We arrived in Kuching, Malaysia for the World Interhash. This is the view from our hotel window. Kuching is a small riverfront town surrounded by jungle. We were woken each morning at 5am to the Muslim “call to prayer.” The town is much like Kuala Lumpar in that it is a blend of Indian, Chinese and Malay cultures.

We arrived just in time to do the Red Dress Run. Men and women alike wear red dresses. This event is run all over the world and proceeds go to charity. Moments after taking this picture a curtain of rain came across the field…and it poured for the next hour. We ran a 5K through the middle of town dripping wet with water up to our ankles! The locals got a good laugh!

The next day we headed to an orangutan sanctuary. These monkeys were rescued and are going through rehabilitation. At some point they would be put back into the wild. Currently they are free…no fences….They are fed bananas, coconuts and other fruits to supplement their diets AND to allow the tourists to view them. This orangutan wanted to see how many bananas she could fit in her mouth!

There were two tiny babies. This one was playing with a plastic water bottle. Just like human babies with pots and pans...it doesn't take much to entertain them!

This was the “cranky” momma…her baby is clinging to her. She decided to move over to the other feeding station. The handlers were telling the tourists to get OUT of the way…and quick. Our friend Michael is the one in the yellow shirt front and center that cranky momma is giving the eye to.

Interhash! Free beer, transportation (that got us lost every time), dinner buffets, nightly entertainment (dancing, music), three porta-potties for EACH sex (yes…six total)…all for 5000 people. Yes…it was a mass chaos. We are just happy to be with good friends and getting some great runs in.

We had a traditional breakfast of Laksa…called the “Borneo breakfast.” It is a bowl of noodles with a coconut gravy, shrimp, chicken, bean sprouts, lime, and cilantro on top. Delicious! Oh, and by the way…I am happy to report that our stomachs have adapted. We are the only tourists not popping Imodium.

We took a riverboat cruise on our last night in Kuching. Dean and I (after traveling In SE Asia) expected a rickety putt-putt boat. We were pleasantly surprised…nice boat, cold beer, and traditional dancing.

I just like this picture….the bride and groom look so out of place! Rickety bridge and fishing boat...hmmmm. On to a whirlwind tour of Singapore!

Kuala Lumpar, Malaysia

2010-07-02T02:45:00.001-07:00

We arrived in Kuala Lumpar....seems to have good infrastructure....big modern city....but still has the street food, interesting smells and craziness of Asia. We met up with our friends Sarah & Jeff and Liz & Mike from Portland, OR. We would be attending the World Interhash. Lot's of running to come!

Jeff has been dreaming of feet eating fish. We went to the mall and Dean and Jeff let the "cleaners" suck on their toes. Apparently not good for those who are ticklish. They say that it gets rid of calluses....but we didn't see any difference in their feet.

We stayed in chinatown. Lot's of streetmarkets and interesting foods. KL is a blend of Indian, Chinese and Malaysian...

Chicken Frogs...patiently waiting to be eaten. They come in many varieties...stir fried, deep fried, steamed....with ginger, chinese herbs, salt and pepper....which would you like?

Jeff decided to partake. I had a bite...tasted like chicken...but the texture is slimy...and you have to watch out for the tiny bones.

The Petronas Towers. The worlds tallest buildings from 1998 to 2004. They do remain the tallest "twin" towers. Beautiful at night!

Imbi market...a big breakfast and wet (produce/meat) market. A bit challenging to find (death march in the heat...oops..my idea) but the food was amazing. I had an oyster/peanut congee (rice porridge) and a coconut rice with spicy beans wrapped in banana leaf.

We did the Batu hash. We were told it would take a "little over an hour" and "would not be that hard." The six Oregonian hashers all agree....it was the hardest trail we've ever done. Straight up (and then down) a mountain in the jungle. It POURED rain. The mud was so slick that you could not walk without holding onto trees or vines....or crawling on your hands and knees. My knee took a beating....I was supposed to slide backwards down a "cliff"...but instead grabbed onto a vine and took the quick way down...on my knee. It got very dark...and the jungle noises were amazing! We all survived...with good stories to tell!

The good news is that the Batu hashers are incredibly fun! We had a huge dinner afterwards...with fresh seafood and guiness beer. We made a lot of friends that night! Great way to kick off the Interhash week....now on to Borneo!

Railay Beach, Thailand

2010-06-28T01:40:00.000-07:00

We took a ferry from Ko Phi Phi to our next destination at Railay Beach. The east side of Railay should not be called a beach. It is more of a mud flat…with mangrove trees. We had to leap from the ferry into a longboat…which then took us as close to shore as we could get at low tide. The boat was full of luggage and tourists in various forms of “resort wear.” I think the mutual thought was “how do we get to shore?” Then we saw the tractor which was attached to the “tourist transporter.” Brilliant! It takes you through the mud and water and safely to shore.

That was when I noticed our boat driver staring at me, and saying “get out.” No one on the boat moved. I questioned out loud, “do you think we have to get out?” The tourists all said, “no way!” and waited patiently for their “tourist transporter”. We finally came to our senses after sitting in the boat for WAY too long. Dean hopped out and lucky for us it was only knee deep…but we had to slog through water and mud…tripping over rocks (broken toe Trish..not happy) on the way. After we had checked into our room, Dean went out to take this picture and there were still tourists sitting in the boat.

The beach on the west side is amazing! (Of course we are staying on the east side) We grabbed some wine and sat on a mat on the sand, watching the sunset.

Limestone cliffs…you can see why Railay is so famous for climbing.

Sunset…..it was one of those that just kept getting better.

The next morning Dean got to climb. Broken toe Trish took pictures and sat on a rock. We are learning something on this trip…"world class diving/climbing can only be fully appreciated if you are a world class diver/climber”. There are over 700 bolted routes on Railay…and it appears that they took all the tourist climbers to the same wall. Sort of like the Great Barrier Reef….we snorkeled with 400 other people.

Dean ended up having 5 great climbs. He also learned how to belay. As one foreign climber put it "You held my life!"

That afternoon we headed to another beach on the island. It is only inhabited by one resort…a five star 26 acre resort with security guards. Lucky for us, the beach is public property.

Wish we’d had kayaks! We swam until we got stung by jellyfish (again!)

Monkeys! I chatted with a little girl who was climbing and she told me “The monkeys come out in the afternoon.” She was right! Course, she also told me that she was saving her money to buy a monkey. Further discussion revealed that it would be a “pretend monkey.” Phew. Now off to Malaysia!

Ko Phi Phi, Thailand

2010-06-24T21:04:00.001-07:00

After one night in Phuket, we took a ferry over to the island of Phi Phi Don. The "tourist village" is made up of small lanes full of restaurants, bars, and shops. No vehicles allowed! Very nice not having to dodge cars/trucks/motorbikes...but you can still get hit by a bicycle. Luckily, most are not well maintained, so you can hear them squeeking up behind you.

The village is set on a small strip of sand...so a beach on each side. This is the "harbor" side. Boats as far as the eye can see. So glad we were here in the "green season". Tourists poured off the ferries, but most left at the end of the day.

The other side. Beautiful white sand beach...and much less boat traffic. Perfect spot for sunset drinks and dinner right on the beach.

A corner of sunset! The beach didn't exactly face west...

The cliffs on either side are amazing. Kept the waters in the bay nice and calm for swimming.

At night the beach transformed! Fire dancers, strings of lights, torches lit, music pumping. Unfortunately for them, England and the USA World Cup games were being viewed in town. I'm sure they benefited later in the evening after both games were won!

The next morning we hiked up to the "Viewpoint". We (of course) took a wrong turn and went the LONG way (SE Asia is not known for good signage). You can see the "spit" of sand...the harbor on the left and the swimming beach on the right. You can also see how the Tsunami wave devestated this island. It went over the spit and back again. Thousands were killed. It has been completely rebuilt...

That afternoon we hired a speedboat for snorkeling. Ended up being a private boat, as the Chinese couple with us wanted to go back to shore. The woman got dizzy when the speedboat hit some big waves. First stop, Monkey Beach. We watched as the youngsters dove into the ocean and swam around. They get fed by tourists all day, then head back into the jungle. At the end of our boat trip, we came back here to snorkel. We saw a huge puffer fish and a seahorse....and then we both got stung by jellyfish....we were covered in welts. Darn those jellyfish.

Maya Beach on Phi Phi Leh...famous for being the spot where they filmed the movie "The Beach". In order to get to it we had to be pummeled on the rocks by waves and climb a slippery ladder..then hike across the island. When we reached our destination, a speedboat pulled up to the beach. No fair.

As the tide came in, we were able to drift back into the other lagoon on Phi Phi Leh. We had snorkeled outside the lagoon earlier. Amazing....beautiful coral...tons of colorful fish. In the lagoon it looked to be only sand...but we found schools of white/translucent fish swimming around.. that really wanted to nibble our feet. We also saw long skinny Gar fish and a small fiesty fish that appeared to want to "kick our *sses". My guess is she was protecting her young....she almost seemed to growl. Now off to Railay Beach for some climbing....that is, if I can fit my broken toe in a climbing shoe!

Ko Tao, Thailand

2010-06-21T23:36:00.001-07:00

We took a ferry to the nearby island of Ko Tao...known for it's snorkeling and diving. It's a very beautiful island...with lot's of huge rocks and pretty coves.
The view from out bungalow deck! Amazing....until you have to walk up OR down the incredibly steep driveway....It was even more exciting on a moped. We felt like the Flintstones on our way up the hill.....had to get our feet running!
The pool. Spent an afternoon reading, swimming and devouring a banana smoothie.
We rented a moped for a day, and decided to snorkel in various coves around the island. What we weren't told is that A) none of the dirt roads are marked B) the dirt roads are 4WD only....not moped friendly. Luckily, Dean grew up riding motorcycles. Unfortunately, I am a nervous nelly riding a moped over boulders and down cliffs with no helmet (just try working on a trauma unit...) We arrived safely and found an amazing cove to snorkel in!
The coral was colorful and covered in fish....the nibbling kind that like to...well...nibble. We did our fare share of kicking at them.
We headed into town to book our diving trip, and decided to have a beer on the beach. The "long boats" are incredibly colorful! Loud too....you get accustomed to the distinct noise they make.
The next morning we dove. The water was incredibly rough. It was almost impossibe to assemble gear, and getting on and off the long boat was dangerous. I managed to break my toe at the end of the day, while jumping into the boat as it was pitching around.
The diving was mediocre. Part has to do with the time of year (monsoon season, of course). Note ALL the dive boats in the picture above. Ko Tao is almost tooo popular. Our dive master said that they can take out 40 divers in one trip! We "only" had ten. It was like a diver party underwater.
The waters here are every shade of blue. Next up....fly to Phuket..and then on to Ko Phi Phi.

Ko Samui, Thailand

2010-06-19T18:14:00.000-07:00

We left the hustle and bustle of Bangkok and hopped on a prop plane bound for Ko Samui island. We attempted a landing…only to pull up sharply and circle for 10 minutes. We then flew to Phuket to refuel, and give it another go. There was a nice crosswind, that made for a rough landing…but we made it! Our hotel on Hat Bo Phut had little beachfront bungalows and a nice pool.

We walked the beach to the small fishing village. Lots of nice restaurants and small shops. Found the perfect bar….they had a projection screen right on the beach playing World Cup Soccer. We sat on big bean bags with candle lit tables in the sand.

The next morning we took a speed boat tour to Ang Thong National Park. We snorkeled for an hour along a coral reef. Once inside the park we saw rock formations that apparently looked like various animals. This one is a monkey with praying hands.

A lion laying down….

Colorful fishing boats. We have broken our vegetarianism….the fresh seafood is amazing.

We hiked up to a saltwater lake. We could see tropical fish and even some coral. They say there was a tunnel connecting the island to the sea…but it has since collapsed.

The view from the top. A precarious climb…almost like going up and down ladders.

We spent the afternoon on another island…eating lunch and kayaking. However, Dean and I opted to lay under a palm tree, napping and swimming in the ocean. On the trip home we had the excitement of running out of gas. Luckily they had a reserve tank…and once they ripped up the floor and manually moved the fuel line we were A-okay. On our last night the fishing village had a street market. Music, dancing, street foods…fun! Now on to Ko Tao…more island hopping!

Two Nights in Bangkok...

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We arrived in Bangkok to discover a city that was much larger and more modern than we expected. This picture exemplifies Bangkok....poverty around one corner..and riches around the other. On the sidewalks we passed people selling food, t-shirts, souvenirs....seconds later a man in a white suit and gloves opened the door to a shopping center selling Prada, Miu Miu and Chanel.
We took an express boat along the Mae Nam Chao Phraya. A good way to see most of the sites from afar...with a nice river breeze!
On our boat there is a "Space for Monks".....it was used appropriately.
We passed skyscrapers, temples and river houses...
The grandeur of the temple...a bit of a contrast...
Wat Arun....a royal palace and temple built to house the Emerald Buddha.
The street carts are amazing!!! Grilled meats, deep-fried snacks, fruit served with ground chilli, fresh fruit juices, coffee served with condensed milk, etc.
Surprised this place is still standing...
Last night we ventured into the Red Light District. Nana Entertainment Plaza is a three-story complex of strip clubs...complete with its own hotel....for those who decide to pick a go-go girl "to go". We were sitting upstairs drinking a beer and people watching when we saw a couple enter the complex. Dean said, "Wherever they go next, we will go." So we headed towards the bar they entered. When we arrived, the doorman whispered, "It's a boy bar!" Dean just about bolted away, but I got the "girls" to encourage him to stay. It was incredibly entertaining. A few of them had us completely fooled....well, not completely...but it led to some interesting conversations...On to the islands!!!!

Phnom Penh

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We decided to spend two nights in the capital of Cambodia, Phnom Penh. We wanted to do a Hash run and learn more about the Khmer Rouge revolution. The Hash was quite an adventure. Unfortunately we did not bring our camera…or should I say fortunately…it would have been ruined. We arrived at an abandoned train station and piled into the back of a “livestock” truck. We basically stood in the back of the truck, bouncing over huge potholes and careening through Cambodian traffic for about 45 minutes. About half way there we just about drowned in a torrential thunderstorm, which did not stop for the next few hours. Our destination was a beautiful temple out in the countryside. We ran 6 miles through cow pies, rice paddies, barbed wire fences, herds of cattle, past huts and naked babies…all in mud and water up to our calves. One of those adventures you never forget! (and my running shoes will never smell the same…)

Our favorite place in Phnom Penh….our private soaking pool. Every time we ventured out into the heat we knew our refreshing pool was waiting for us. Our tiny hotel, The 240, was wonderful.

Disclaimer…prepare to be depressed. This is the Tuol Sleng Museum. In 1975 this High School was taken over by Pol Pot’s security forces and turned into a prison known as Security Prison 21 (S-21). This became the largest centre of detention and torture in the country. Between 1975-1978 more than 17,000 people held at S-21 were taken to the killing fields.

Building A was used for detaining cadres who were accused of leading the uprise against Pol Pot. There were torture tools and shackles present. The front of the buildings were covered in a fishnet of barbed wire, preventing prisoners from committing suicide by jumping down.

The Security of Regulation…rules to be followed. Next to this was the pull up bars that had been used by the children of the school for physical education. It was turned into an interrogation and torture machine. I will spare you the details.

The Khmer Rouge leaders were meticulous in keeping records. Each prisoner was photographed, sometimes before and after torture. I could not photograph the “after” pictures…too disturbing. The museum displays include room after room of harrowing black-and-white photo’s…men, women and children that were later killed. It brought tears to our eyes…some looked so terrified.

The individual cells...most with blood stains on the floor and chains still attached to the walls. At the height of the Khmer Rouge revolution they started devouring their own. Generations of torturers and executioners who worked here were in turn killed by those who took their places. When the Vietnamese army liberated Phnom Penh in 1979, there were only seven prisoners alive at S-21. Pol Pot died in 1998...he was never brought to justice.
The Royal Palace....outside the gates you see so much poverty...tuk-tuk drivers, beggers, children selling goods. An interesting contrast. Now on to Thailand! We are giving Bangkok another try....