Kaikoura- seals, whales....

We headed Wednesday morning for Kaikoura...a beach town know for their pod of Sperm Whales...it helps that the continental shelf is only 1/2 mile from shore. The sperm whales feast on the elusive giant squid down in the deep.

When we arrived it was cold and stormy, but we headed out on a coastal walk, and spotted all kinds of sea life! In this picture is a fur seal and a sea bird..thought it was a penguin at first..but later noted that it had wings (trying to fool us!)










We made our way down to the water and found a bunch of napping fur seals. You could get pretty close...but you could also get bitten...so we kept our distance!













Look at that face! I just wanted to rub their belly's....












Thursday we went out on a whale watch tour. We saw four large males. They float along, and then eventually dive down. Luckily, our guide could read them well, and would say "camera's ready!" so that we could get the perfect picture....









Look at that tail! Some can hold their breath for over an hour...so once they dive, say goodbye!











The restrictions were not quite as strict as in the U.S., we were able to get quite close. Us...and the "whale watch" plane, and the "whale watch" helicopter....kind of annoying. If sounded like a war zone. Luckily, they only allow 3 "annoying vessels" per whale.







The view from our B&B this morning, as we LEFT. Beautiful day! We finally got to see the coast range. Our B&B was great. Run by an 80yr old grandma...hot tea and muffins when we arrived in front of a fire, hot cooked breakfast every morning. We also met some great people...and even some our age! (We either run into young 20's...or older retired...not much in between!)

The view from up our street...Now on to Christchurch for two days of city life.....

South Island- Akaroa...

Yesterday we flew into Christchurch on the South Island. We immediately rented a car and headed South to Akaroa, a "French influenced" coastal town. This is the view of it in the distance.
On our way in we stopped at Barry's Cheese for a quick tour and some seriously delicious cheeses.









The harbour is beautiful...turqouise waters and lot's of sailboats. We made our way through town gathering wine, french bread, fruits for our dinner...








We also stopped at a bar right on the water where we ran into a girl who just toured with our friends Bill and Carolyn...got to chat with her for about an hour. Turns out she lives in Redwood City, where I was born...small world!!!!!

Now on to Kaikoura...a town famous for their Sperm Whales...

Blackwater Rafting

The glowworm cave was AMAZING. We all put on hugely thick smelly wet suits  booties, gum boots, and helmets with cave lights. We then got bused over to the river where we had to jump backwards off a platform with our tubes on our butts to practice for the waterfalls. Inside the cave we had to crawl, clamber, scramble, slide...you name it..we did it. Within the first few minutes we had to slide under a rock shelf...so imagine laying flat on your tube with your face scraping along the rock "roof". I would hate to be claustrophobic! We jumped backwards over two different waterfalls...one of our guides did a front flip. Impressive! They were crazy girls. The other highlights were forming a chain (all locked together by our arms/feet) and gliding silently in the dark with the glowworm "night sky" above us. Very peaceful. At the end they had us turn of our lights and float our way out. You couldn't see your hand in front of your face. Very surreal.

An idea of what the low cave roof could do to you! Yikes!

Our group...ready for the first waterfall!

Waterfall!

Dean sliding down a mud bank into the river at the very end. We floated down the river instead of hiking out. Much easier in our "attractive, comfortable garb..."

Me...kicking back on the river....

Rotten Eggs and Glowworms!

Yesterday we woke up in Rotorua, and decided to find out what the "rotten egg" smell was all about! Rotorua is a huge geothermal area. We headed out to Waiotapu to take the "tour". We arrived just in time to watch Lady Knox Geyser erupt. It was hysterical...tons of tourists anxiously awaiting the eruption! They actually pour some "soap powder" down the vent to get it to erupt. Let's just say, it was no Old Faithful.
























We stayed just long enough to watch her erupt...then raced off to beat the crowd to the other parts of the park.
























The park is actually very beautiful. A mixture of sulfur crusted pits, jade-colored ponds, and mud pools. You basically hike through it all, and sometimes over the top of it...for about an hour.

























We then drove across country to Waitomo to await our glowworm tour in the morning. Stayed at a great little B&B...the owner recommended a hike around the caves. We basically got to peek into the caves we will be tubing down later....

























The caves are part of an ancient seabed that was lifted and then eroded into an underground landscape of limestone formations and caverns. Spooky in the dark!



















The best part is the glowworms. Last night we grabbed flashlights and went back to the caves in the dark. You may have to use your imagination, but you should see what looks like stars. The glowworm is a larvae measuring 1-2 inches that live on cave ceilings. They snare prey by dangling sticky filaments, which trap insects attracted to the light the worm emits. It looks like the night sky in miniature. In an hour...we will put on wetsuits, helmets and headlamps....sit on a inner tube and take a tour of the dark caves. Can't wait! On to Aukland tonight to have dinner with Bill and Carolyn....we must swap NZ stories!

Kayak, scuba and Hangi....

Yesterday the ocean finally calmed down enough for some kayaking. We went on a guided trip with Cathedral Cove Kayaking. Great guide, and only one other couple...so we got to hear lot's of history about the area. He even made us latte's on the beach...with foam...;)



















Last night we went to Eggsentric...a fantastic restaurant...best meal so far. King fish, shrimp, breaded mussels and scallops over a coconut risotto with lemon creme sauce...yum! To work off the 3,000 calories we ate we went diving this morning. Much colder then the Cooks,
and not as much to see....well, LOT's of kelp. Got tangled up in it.




























After diving we drove to Rotorua...a big geothermal area. We went to a traditional Maori Hangi...Dean (of course) got picked as one of the Chief's....he had to greet the warriors.

















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And bump noses with them..It was actually a great show. Learned more about the culture...they really know how to entertain. Tomorrow it's off to see some geothermal areas and then on to the glow worm caves!

Hahei....beaches galore!

Yesterday we arrived in Hahei...a sleepy little coastal town with some very cool beaches. We hiked out to this beach...Cathedral Ridge. The surf was too rough for kayaking or snorkeling..but at least the sun was out.

This is Stingray Bay...normally full of stingrays, except that a pod of Orca came recently and ate most of them for dinner...;)



















We discovered Purangi winery...off the beaten path. Very funky. They make wines such as plum, guava, and persimmon. They also make a mean citrus gin...add a fresh picked lemon and we had cocktails for the beach!



















Danny, the owner's son, will talk your ear off....and has a fast wit. He served the wine in shot glasses, and seemed keen on having us taste everything.



















After wine tasting we headed out to the famous "Hot Water Beach"...a warm spring seeps beneath the beach...and if you dig a hole the hot water pools and you can sit in it. Juli's nephew had described it as picturesque and romantic. My guess is that he was there "off season" and maybe at night. Unfortunately for us low tide was at 6pm..thus lot's of tourists digging holes in the sand...and laying in them. Ugh.

Bay of Islands and Coromandel

On Monday we headed for the Bay of Islands..."an island littered seascape with a mild, subtropical climate"...unless you are Portlanders...then it is a downpour. The number one statement we heard was "it hasn't rained here in 3 months". Glad we could help. We had the same effect in the Cook Islands..bringing a cyclone of rain.

We followed Fodor's rec's to take the "longer and more winding but more scenic" route. Wow...apparently the author doesn't understand motion sickness, or sitting in the car for 4 extra hours! The good news is that we did get to see the Waipoua State Forest and stood next to Tane Mahuta a Kauri tree that is 1200-2000 years old, 173 feet high and 45 feet at it's base. Pretty cool.

The forest was incredible....very much a jungle. We went from farmland to coastline to jungle. A long drive, but a pretty one....

That evening we made it to Paihia, where we stayed the night. We hopped on a ferry to the more "trendy" (ie expensive) town of Russell. The next morning we woke up to more rain..and decided to move on a few days early. No need to swim with the dolphins or kayak in a torrential rain storm!

Yesterday we arrived in Coromandel. Much improved weather, and a very pretty drive. We hiked into town for a beer and a delicious dinner. Then hiked back over the mountain at sunset. Reminded me of our dinner hikes, with Dean walking ahead of me in the dark, with a bottle of wine in his hand!

Today we took a ride on the Driving Creek Railway...this is one of the tunnels...reminds me of McMenamins.

Our train, and the platform at the top

A view of Coromandel from the top.... turquoise waters. Tonight we are going to do a "picnic" on our harbor view porch and watch the sunset. Tomorrow we move on to the other side of the peninsula for some beach time.....