Franschhoek and Hermanus, South Africa

We celebrated our 1st anniversary (I know, a few weeks late, but the real day was spent jet lagged in Munich) in the gastronomic capital and wine tasting region of Franschhoek, South Africa. Got upgraded to a beautiful attic room in a B&B with a private porch overlooking the mountains.

This (and the previous picture) is the first of four wineries that we hit. All were amazing...we spent hours on this property just looking around. The first was known for it's grandeur, the second it's wines, the third the view and the fourth the underground cave.

The view of the valley. Franschhoek means "French Corner," and has a centuries long history of colonial settlement.

We then drove down to Hermanus...acknowledged as one of the twelve best whale viewing sites in the world, as well as the BEST land based whale watching in the world. This is the world's only whale crier, Pasika Noboba. He patrols the streets blowing his kelp horn and alerting everyone to the whereabouts of the whales.

Whales can been seen from as close as a few metres from the rocky cliffs. We watched this Mom and her baby swim by. The southern right whales population is doubling every ten years. The whale count for Hermanus has risen steadily to around 150 at the height of the season.

We watched them play....they breached (as above), spyhopped (lifting their heads out), lobtailed (slapping their tails), sailed ( lifting their tails clear out of the water) and blowed. There is a 12km-long cliff path that we walked with our camera and binoculars. We could watch them for hours...and even brought a picnic and bottle of wine!

Another popular thing to do in South Africa? Shark cage diving...and who wouldn't?! We spent the first two hours on the boat freezing in the blowing wind....while the crew chummed the waters (note the barrel full of blood and guts above). We were not having any luck...so we moved to the famous "Shark Alley".

SHARK! He loved the "seal" decoy that was set for him. Got his mouth right around it....
Dean got suited up. You put on a wetsuit, mask and weights. No snorkel or regulator...which surprised us. They just have you hold your breath. (Can you hold your breath when screaming? ;)
The shark cage from above with the first victims loaded in. The yellow bobber has two fish heads attached (that were replaced fairly often) and the red line has the "seal" decoy. Getting in and out of the cage is actually fairly frightening, especially when a Great White is flashing through the water inches away. I made sure to get a good foot hold! Once in, you find that the cage is fairly "open"....ie. feet and hands can slip out. Yes, you could pet the shark....but none of us were that stupid (besides...we were told we would get in trouble).

That's me, second from the right...with the white line pointed at my head...and the BIG shark putting his nose into the cage. He could use a good flossing....those were some gnarly teeth.
Dean was in the cage during this one. The guy in charge of the fish head lure had lot's of fun dragging it across the front of the cage with the shark attached. Up close and personal. The sharks did occasionally get in a tug of war...and usually won. We lost the yellow bobber at one point.

This might be the reason for shark alley. It is an island COVERED with seals. I have never smelled anything so bad. A seagull had pooped on me...and I was sure that I was the reason for the stench before I turned my head. Seals piled upon seals...amazing. Off to Mozambique next for some diving with whale sharks (cross your fingers) and amazing seafood!

Cape Town, South Africa

After a 20 hour flight with stops in Abu Dhabi and Jo’Burg we finally arrived in Cape Town, South Africa! This is the view from our apartment high in the Bo-Kaap hills. The city is flanked by Table Mountain on one side and the ocean on the other, making for some incredible views.

We were steps away from Long Street, known for its shops, restaurants and bars. Unfortunately, it is not considered safe to walk around at night, so we did most of our site-seeing during the day.

We visited the District Six Museum to learn about the forced eviction of some 50,000 people of all races during the 1960s and ‘70s. Their houses were flattened by bulldozers and they were moved to a barren outlying area known as the Cape Flats. The Separate Amenities Act created separate beaches, buses, toilets, schools and park benches. Blacks were even made to carry identity documents at all times.

We decided to “walk” up Table Mountain (ha ha), recommended by a couple we met in Laos. We took a taxi around to the opposite side and hiked up Skeleton Gorge. The name would make sense to us later...

One of the many ladders we ended up climbing, as well as using chains. The hike ended up taking around four hours. We went off trail (as did many others) and at many points I was climbing on my hands and knees. We also ran out of water…lucky for us the top had a “café” for those who took the easy way up (the Cableway).

The top of the mountain was buzzing with ENORMOUS bees! Probably twice the size of a bumble bee. Not sure if they sting or not…did not want to find out!

The water at the top was “tea” colored….almost red. It is stained by the roots of plants. The top of the mountain was like being on the surface of another planet....huge boulders, interesting plants and strange animal life (insects, lizards, frogs, etc.)

The view from the very top….looking over Cape Town and the waterfront. We hiked across the mountain to the Cableway and took the easy way down (after tossing back two huge waters!)

The next day we rented a car and headed for the coast. Made our way to Boulders Beach known for its colony of African Penguins. From just two breeding pairs in 1982, the penguin colony has grown to about 3000. As you can see, you can walk right up to them!

Don’t laugh….they begin moulting in December. So cute.

We then drove down to the Cape of Good Hope. This is Cape Point which is between two major ocean currents with markedly different sea temperatures. You truly feel like you are at the end of the world.

Baboons are commonly spotted. The troops on the Cape Peninsula are the only protected population of this species in Africa. We were lucky enough to see a little guy at the side of the road...

We were very surprised to see huge ostrich walking along the coast! I’m sure Africa has more up her sleeve. On to wine country, whale watching and shark cage diving in South Africa.

Munich, Germany...Oktoberfest!

Dean and I traveled with Jessi and Tyler to Munich, Germany to celebrate OKTOBERFEST! We arrived early in the morning after a red eye flight and decided the best plan was to keep moving! We took a train to Augsburg, a town just outside Munich, to visit Dean’s friend Manuel. He was the perfect host…starting with beers, traditional Bavarian food and a walking tour of the city.

Unfortunately the red eye flight eventually caught up with us! Luckily Manuel was kind enough to offer up his cozy couch for us to pass out on before we took the train home to Munich. We were like a bunch of zombies stumbling through the streets of Augsburg…

Oktoberfest actually takes place over 16 days in September ….confusing, yes. Over six million people attend. There 14 big tents (holding around 8000 people each) and 20 small tents. It is a carnival, drinking event and foodfest all wrapped into one. We were lucky enough to attend the day the draft horses pulling the beer kegs were presented…and yes, I kissed one on the nose.

The “tents” are absolutely lavish….believe it or not, this tent was put up just days before we arrived. There are huge, clean bathrooms….full cooking facilities…live bands….rows of tables….fireplaces, etc.

And yes….we dressed appropriately! Lederhosen and dirndls…..and we were not the only ones! Locals and tourists alike participated in the tradition.

We were fortunate enough to spend out first day of Oktoberfest with Lars, a good friend of Manuels. He has numerous connections and has spent many years working and playing at Oktoberfest. We toured the various tents…small and large…learned how to pace ourselves with the huge steins of beer, ate delicious foods, and learned drinking songs.

The best part was meeting the locals! Singing songs, swinging beers and wearing authentic lederhosen with all the fixings.

Ah….the food. Mr. Eisenbraun was in heaven. It took the vegetarian/vegans a few days to adjust. By the end of the trip we were all nibbling on bratwurst, pretzels, spatzl, haxe (pig knuckle), shnitzel, etc.

Oktoberfest at night..carnival lights, stumbling drunks, garbage all over the ground….completely entertaining!

Yes, we did do something other than drink beer! During the day we walked all over Munich….saw the Glockenspiel, outdoor beer gardens, the original Hoffbrau house, etc. We also did Mike’s Bike tour…riding for four hours around the sites of Munich.

This picture had to make the cut. One of the tents is famous for its ox….they kept a going tally of how many had been slaughtered (90 oxen on average). We walked up just as they were putting up a fresh ox (not an easy task..they are massive!)…and toasting after!

Our last night of Oktoberfest….we went early to get our own table. Easier said than done. Had to “make friends quick.” We were lucky enough to join these young locals in a night of standing on tables and singing drinking songs! (and yes, for those who know Bruno...he joined us for two nights!)

We spent our last night in Germany in the Alps! Rented a car and drove out to Garmisch-Partenkirchen (say that 10 times). Stayed in a lovely B&B with painted ceilings and beautiful gardens. We hiked up to a restaurant on the side of the mountain.

The top! As our B&B hostess said, “it goes up for a little bit for a long time…but you look sporty” (said in German accent). It was perfect weather, good company and amazing food….just like the entire week! Prost! On to Africa!

Cuba

There is a bill being considered by U. S. Government that will allow Americans to travel to Cuba so I decided to write an entry into the blog of a trip to Havana Cuba that I would like to do if it were legal for Americans to travel there. I would, of course, NEVER try to travel to a place that my beloved government has banned me from travelling to.

The trip would likely be five days sightseeing in Havana and one day excursion out to an eco-community in the hills outside Havana.

The first day I would just go on foot in and around old Havana “La Havana Vieja”. This part of the city sits at the mouth of the bay of Havana. Original founded by the Spanish as a stopping point for Spanish galleons it was also a major slave trade port. The buildings in this part of the city are very beautiful but like most of Havana have slowly become dilapidated over the last 50 years. They are trying to restore many of the buildings but it’s happening slowly and the extent of the damage and the sheer number of buildings that need restoration is daunting.

Of course, I would visit the Partagas cigar factory. I would not be allowed to take a camera into this factory but here is what the lobby and cigar shop would look like. All buildings, businesses, etc. are government owned so once Fidel took over all the different cigar companies became one. So Cohiba, Montecristo, Partagas, Romeo & Juliet, etc. are all made in this (and other) factories. I would be surprised to learn that, regardless of price or grade, all hand rolled cigars are made by the same rollers with the same outside leaf (the most expensive leaf). It is only the inside tobacco leaves that determines the quality & price. I would try them all and be shocked to find that Partagas was my favorite… I imagine.

I would also visit the Museo Del Ron which is a museum depicting the traditional Rum distillery (complete with multiple tastings). Originally the Bacardi family ran its operation in Cuba but after Fidel’s revolution they pulled up tent stakes and moved to Puerto Rico. Now Havana Club is the main rum of the country (of course, government owned). Most locals drink rum neat (in a glass no ice). Mojitos & Cuba Libres are primarily consumed by tourist only. One mixed drink that the locals do occasionally drink is a mixture of liquid cane sugar and rum. (I don’t know the name of it).

If I were there in August then the days in Havana are hot and balmy. To cool off I would imagine that most evenings during my stay I would want to grab a HUGE Cuban cigar (considering they only cost about $8 US there) and some Buccaneer beer and join the locals on the Malecon. The Malecón is a broad esplanade, roadway and seawall which stretches for 8 km along the coast in Havana, Cuba, from the mouth of Havana Harbor in Old Havana to Vedado. Locals sit and just “hang out” from early evening to late at night all along this area.

The last day there I would probably head out of town to get a view and experience the Cuban countryside. There is an old coffee plantation that has been converted to a sort of eco-resort. Here I would be able to learn a little about rural life in Cuba as well as do some canopy zip-lining. Another added bonus to this trip would be that I would be able to ride the one hour bus ride there and back sitting next to a Cuban law student, who speaks perfect English, and get an interesting perspective on Cuban life, Government, and her view of the United States… I imagine.

From my reading of Cuba it seems like a very beautiful place with very wonderful people. I sure hope the U.S. lifts the travel ban someday so I can go there and do all these things.