Hokitika, Greymouth, and train ride....

We continued via shuttle to the small beachfront town of Hokitika...known for jade, whitebait and driftwood....per my opinion. We stayed in a small cabin by the beach, with a tiny "farm" of animals. We decided to take a walk on the beach and just about got blown away! (That's me..blowing down the beach) I've never seen such a tumultuous ocean...wave upon wave coming in. They say the West coast of NZ is wild..and they are right!

The wind and waves has led to some strange things....driftwood galore! This tree stump looks as though it is rooted in the sand...and there were many more like it....



gh

The next day we went to Greymouth..where we would catch our train. The hostel we stayed in was great...global theme...had bikes, kayaks, a fire pit, hot tub. The owner suggested we ride their bikes to the ocean and watch the sunset. Great plan! Afterwards we made a huge salad (you have no idea how exciting this is...green stuff....yum. Everything here is fried or dipped in butter)

The next morning we headed to the Monteith Brewery for a tour. Encountered this sign along the way. That is a new one!

Got the full tour at the brewery. Had never seen open fermentation vats. The tour guide stated that anything that would "fall" in (ie critters) would die from the CO2....hmmm...that wasn't really my concern.

Monteiths has a fair selection of beers...but we do miss our Oregon microbrews!!!!! Very few IPA's.....

At the end of the tour we got to taste it all....and then pull our own beers. Dean and I did very well....some of the others ended up with a glass of foam. Perhaps we are a little more concerned about getting a full beer...;)

The sink in the women's bathroom. Will remember this when we put in our basement bathroom!

Got to our train only to find that a coal train had derailed, and we would have to bus the first hour of our trip. It was a complete "goat rodeo"...with lot's of standing around and waiting...but we finally got on the train!

Arthur's Pass....normally covered with snow...but still pretty.

The train took us back to Christchurch....where we are now in a "fancy" hotel by the airport (TWO fluffy pillows each, a KING bed, a big shower that we don't have to share with everyone else, fluffy good smelling towels, two free glasses of wine! HA!) Unfortunately our flight for Sydney leaves at 0630....see you in Australia!

Franz Josef glacier

After leaving Wanaka we headed via shuttle bus to Franz Josef Glacier. After our five hour drive we decided to have a night in. Franz is a small town...not a lot to do. We cooked up some delicious burrito's and had a movie night (so nice to do every once in a while!) The next day we headed to the glacier with a guided tour. Above is a picture as we hiked in. We would soon be up on top of the glacier. Franz is amazing...it is a glacier in a "rainforest". The only other one like it (besides it's neighbor Fox) is in South America. A strange concept to be wearing crampons and hiking on ice in a t-shirt.

Our large group split into three....we were lucky enough to get into the "more athletic" group...got to spend more time on the ice and descend into a crevice. This is a photo from our hike up onto the glacier..the steepest part. Once you get through the scree (rocks slides all earound you) you get to a "ice staircase" that the guides are constantly working on with pick axes. The crampons they gave us worked wonders. Never even slipped.

On the glacier..you may be able to see the staircase right up the middle....

Our guide setting the rope for us to use to descend into the crevice...most of them hike in shorts.

Dean heading down....the first few stairs our pretty good...but towards the bottom there is barely room to put your feet down. The walls are flowing with water and it get's very tight. Thank goodness for the rope!

My turn....On the way up I smacked my knee on the ice...yes, the same knee that just recoverd from Bursitis....poor knee.

We met up with a fantastic English couple that we ended up going out with later that night...shared travel stories and many a pint. Our trip down the glacier was interesting...soon after taking this photo the rainforest skies opened up and it POURED rain....it put Portland to shame. We all got drenched...even with the rain jacket provided....our boots were like puddles. It was actually miserable....we were just happy to be the tour hiking OUT...and felt sorry for the one hiking IN.

Wanaka

Took a shuttle from Queenstown to Wanaka...described as Queenstown "years ago". Nice town, set right on a lake, and the gateway to Mt Aspiring National Park. Much more our speed! Reminded me a great deal of Bend, OR. The weather is much drier and warmer. The morning we arrived we hiked up Mt Iron...and took the picture above. We stayed at a great little B&B run by an older couple. It really felt like we were staying with family friends. They invited us to have drinks with them in the evening and cooked us huge breakfasts! We slept like logs!

The next morning we hopped in our rented AWD van and headed to Rob Roy Glacier. The road going in and out is gravel and definitely "washboard" with fords to cross, so it was difficult and $$ to get transport. Reminded me of the Road to Hana on Maui...no rental agency wants you to take your car there. Perhaps they are scared you will get it stuck in a river...;) (not that I would ever do that!)

The hike in was about 4hrs roundtrip. We encountered some interesting "washouts". This is the sign for the next picture. We sure as heck were not going to stop under that rock! In fact we both ran across the trail....;)

It might be hard to see..but this rock with tree's growing out of it is being held up by about three tiny boulders underneath. Hmmm......

We thought it was raining as we got close to the glacier, only to find that the waterfalls were all blowing into the gorge.

Rob Roy Glacier....the rock walls are covered in waterfalls. Very dramatic.

On our way out we encountered a herd being moved into another field. We were about to cross the cattle stop when the bull made his presence known. He walked over to glare at us. Did he really think we were going to cross him? We did get to watch the dogs heard the cows once the bull got out of our way. The momma cows charged the dogs, very protective of their calves. Good moms! On to the daddy of all glaciers....Franz Josef. We will take a guided walk on the glacier....

Queenstown Part 2 and Milford Sound

As soon as we returned from the Routeburn track, we immediately headed for the famous "Fergburger" for a huge burger, fries and a beer...or two...After dehydrated foods for three days you tend to dream about what you're going to eat first. Had not had a burger in a long time...but let me tell you...NZ is the place to have it.
We also returned to the "hype" of Queenstown. Disneyland if you will. The town was starting to wear us down. It was where we needed to stay...the gateway to the Routeburn track and Milford Sound...but yikes. It is all "sell, sell, sell." You can book a "tour' (Bungy jump! Jet Boat! Sky Dive! Horse trek!) ANYWHERE. Everyone makes a commission. We first noted it on the taxi ride in. Our driver told us all about this amazing jet boat ride....after going on and on...we finally said "hmm...sounds like fun" and he immediately pulled out a voucher for us. We ended up doing further research, and picked a different company to go with. We learned that you really could not trust any advice given....thank goodness for the travel guide and other tourists.
Speaking of tourists..we ended up doing the ultimate tourist tour. Took the TSS Earnslaw (old steamboat) across the lake to a farm. Had afternoon tea and got to see the different animals at work and at play.

Me, smooching a Scottish Highland bull.

A working dog bringing the sheep in. The poor sheep know the drill well....they started heading for the woods as soon as the tourists start lining up....

Sheep shearing....the sheep did look pretty relaxed, but I kind of doubt she was "happy to have all her fur removed" as the shearer put it. Having worn a merino wool shirt on this trip...they are amazing at keeping you both warm and cool when needed. A naked sheep just looks forlorn.....

The next morning, bright and early, was our trip out to Milford Sound. No easy way to get there. It is a 5 hour bus ride there....2 hour boat ride on the Sound..and then 5 hours back. Ugh. Oh, and it helps if you get ON the bus. Dean set the alarm on his cell phone for 0530...and it decided not to bother us. So I bolted awake at 0650....bus was there for pick up at 0630. Talk about a rude awakening. No refund...and no way to catch the bus according to the company. So I started calling every bus tour in town. Finally found one that was "down the street." They asked if we were ready "now"...I convincingly said "yes" while sitting in my PJ's with my hair disheveled. Did manage to grab a toothbrush on the way out the door.

Self photo of Dean after I laughed at his hair. This does not do it justice...as the back of his head was the part that was misbehaving.

Photo on the way in to the Sound. The scenery really is spectacular...but we were a little spoiled after our Routeburn track.

Got on a boat and headed for the Tasman Sea....the best time to see the sound is during rain, as the entire thing turns into a waterfall. Our bus driver said it was like something out of Jurassic Park. Unfortunately it was cloudy but dry the day we went.

I swore no photo's, but then realized that I always look this way....ponytail and hiking clothes....

Some gorgeous waterfalls...and back on the bus for another 5 hours of bus driver comedy...and
perhaps a nap.

On to Wanaka the "little" Queenstown.

Routeburn Track

(FYI- I got a little behind...see the Queenstown blog as well...did both today!)
Took us about a day to prepare for the 3 day Routeburn track. We "hired" a sleeping bag, hiking poles, and a pot...the rest we had. Then we got a locker for all the rest of our "stuff" (did meet one guy who carried it all...ugh) We arranged transport there and back. This picture is of "Mirror Lakes" a stop off on our bus ride to the Divide...a chance to stretch our legs. Not a bad rest stop!

Our first day of hiking was INCREDIBLE weather. We really lucked out. Warm and sunny....the views were amazing. I think we stopped every 10 feet to take another picture. We (apparently) did the hike "backwards" which suited us just fine...we ran into very few people.

Not sure a picture can even do it justice...but these are the type of views we had. Lot's of crystal clear (glacier water) waterfalls and rivers...and incredibly high mountains.

Can you find me in the picture? I think I was in heaven....taking a break on top of a boulder looking into turqouise waters. Really should have gone for a swim...but we had a ways to go still....

The trail....not an easy hike...but the views made it go fast. The walking poles were a life saver. Lot's of rocks and roots to trip over....

The one thing that did amaze us was the lack of wildlife...really only birds...oh, and a REALLY big earthworm. I thought Dean was going to put it in his pocket he was so excited! He was dreaming of the BIG fish he could catch with it.

This if the view from out first "hut". We ate our freeze dried chicken curry on a grassy bank of the lake, sipping Vodka Tangs and watching the sun go down. Other's were swimming.

Talk about luxury...you get a place with cold running water (drink at your own risk- we are still alive), gas cookers and a bunk house with mattresses and FLUSH toilets!

This is our hut. I will add one disclaimer...the bunk rooms...ugh....ours had four to a bunk. So the man who was running to the bathroom in his tighty whities (yes, there are 49 other people walking around) was MY bunkmate. Actually, he was very nice..held a light for me while I scrambled around in the dark. So then, picture your personal bunk house filled with about 25 people, and imagine the snoring, sleep apnea (at one point I wanted to yell "BREATH!"), farting....you get it.

The next day we woke up bright and early...who sleeps in with 25 bedmates..and headed on our longest hike...up to the saddle. It was supposed to rain...but we lucked out! Dry day...just high clouds. Good thing we took lot's of pictures on our sunny hike in! The clouds were a blessing...it was a long treeless hike.

This is the view from out second hut. Even though it wasn't "warm" out, we decided it was time for a bath. We found a private pool and took a dip. I thought Dean was going to have a heart attack when he dove underwater. It was FREEZING! However, it was so nice to be clean.

Today we hiked out in the pouring rain....good thing we were well prepared! Brooke- this photo is dedicated to you. When Brooke and I traveled through Costa Rica we had to cross a suspension bridge every night to get to our room. Brooke is not fond of heights, and I took great pleasure in bouncing up and down on the bridge, freaking her out! Today we crossed at least five of these....

We tried to capture the color of the water....it is so beautiful! Makes you want to go for a swim. Back to Queenstown for a Fergburger (thanks Bill! They are delicious....) hot shower and some serious laundry to be done.....

Queenstown...finally, what we thought NZ would be!

Arrived in Queenstown on Valentine's Day....very much a resort town like Lake Tahoe. We found a decent hostel to stay in...they really are the way to go for keeping on a budget (but ugh...the towels STINK...mildew? I'm embarrassed to say I handed mine back in, only to find that they all smell that bad. I felt like such a girl.)
















We asked the girl at the hostel for a dinner hike spot...Dean and I met 3 years ago on Valentine's Day...so what better way to spend it then hiking with a little wine, cheese, olives, chocolate...and here is the view

The next day we decided to go on a jet boat ride in Skipper Canyon....we heard that the bus ride through the canyon was beautiful. Little did we know...the bus ride was more exciting and dangerous then the actual jet boat! We were on the edge of a cliff for about an hour. I swear, if one of us had sneezed, or leaned to the right we would have tipped over the edge.

The best part was when we came around a blind corner to find a bus coming towards us...lot's of backing up and maneuvering around with holding of breaths....

We survived, and did finally get in the jet boat. GREAT ride. Reminded me of the jet boats on the Willamette (free ride down the river after our dragon boat race!) however, on CRACK. We did 360 degree turns, and the driver skirted by rocks and cliffs inches from your face. I think his greatest joy was making people scream...and we did.

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I dedicate this photo to my brother-in-law Scott...a big Lord of the Rings fan (he'll understand when I "geek" out for a while). This is the exact spot in the river in the first movie, where Aragorn and Arwen (I think..) are being chased, and a huge "horse" wave sweeps through the canyon and wipes out the bad guys....great scene.

After the jet boat ride they took us to what used to be a bungy site. We walked out onto the bridge and this would be your view if you decided to jump! Yikes!

You can see the bridge in the background.....

Finally! Sun and blue skies in Queenstown. We walked down to the lake for gelato. This is a picture of the Remarkables....they are stunning. Now...on to the Routeburn Track!!!!!