Kirindy Forest, Madagascar

Next destination…Reserve Forestiere de Kirindy. Back in the Land Cruiser for another long dusty drive. This time the scenery was not new…ugh. This is our “rustic” bungalow. Actually, nicer than we expected…even had a flush toilet! Pretty good for out in the middle of the woods.

The camp kitchen…big iron pots set over cooking fires. The food was delicious…Zebu kebabs!

We took a night walk before the thunder storm came. Saw many different nocturnal lemurs….very difficult to take pictures! This is a fat-tailed lemur trying his best to “be one” with the tree limb.

Another Sifaka..there are nine species in total. Unlike the Sifaka’s in the Tsingy, these have a black spot on top of their heads. None of the parks “connect”, so normally each animal is only find in that specific region.

The elusive Fosa, Madagascar’s largest predator. They are a “puma-like creature.” Looks like a species of cat…but is actually considered to be part of the fox family. We were lucky to be here during their mating season. We found this male napping next to one of the camp bungalows. While we watched he rolled over on his back and basically lazed about. Ludo said if we got too close he would attack.

A lemur for every tree! These guys descended upon the camp…dangerous with a fosa about. They were hoping for handouts.

All they got was a bucket of water…but this seemed to please them enough! They came down one at a time for a long drink.

The “mother” baobab….the largest around. This one has to be over a thousand years old.

The famous “baobabs in love”….they are either twins, or one tree that was cut while young.

We headed back to Chez Maggie for two nights of relaxation on the beach. This is our sweet little bungalow. Now back to Tana and South Africa…on our way to Victoria Falls!

Manambolo River, Madagascar

The next morning we again woke at dawn. We would be taking a pirogue (dugout canoe) trip up the Manambolo River. The two pirogues were tied together, and Ludo, Dean and I sat on wooden planks, while our “driver” sat at the back “punting” with a long pole.

The scenery was incredible…the tsingy was on our left and high cliffs on our right. We saw caves, long sand bars, birds, lemurs, butterflies….The rocky walls were amazing. On the paddle home Dean said, “I wonder what would happen if a rock fell.” Not 10 seconds later there was a huge BOOM and a boulder came crashing down the mountain and into the water. Hmmm.

Ludo helped by paddling…going upstream was a tedious process. It took us around five hours to get to our destination. I offered to paddle (dragonboat paddler…come on!) but never got a chance (probably okay since I haven’t paddled in almost a year and the paddle looked HEAVY).

After five hours of sitting on a plank we turned onto a smaller side river that led us to “the pools.” When we reviewed our trip with Ludo he mentioned that very few people make it to the last pool. He said that after the long paddle upriver, people get to the second pool which is soooo beautiful and refreshing that they never want to hike further upriver. Well, the gauntlet had been thrown down…we would make it to the last pool!

AND then we got to the second pool. Come on! No wonder people never leave it! There were multiple waterfalls and pools to swim around in. After swimming you pull out your fish and butter sandwich (delicious as long as you don’t look between the slices of bread and actually see the fish, eggs and all) and laze in the sun.

However, we were not going to give up. We threw on our clothes and began the long climb over boulders and along rocky stream beds. Then the thunder and lightning began….and the pouring rain. I must say though….this was worth the effort!

We only stayed long enough to snap two quick pictures. Dean joked about the directions to this special place, “Fly 20+ hours to South Africa and spend the night, fly to Tana, Madagascar and spend the night, fly to Morondava and spend the night, drive 10 hours over 4WD roads to Bekopaka and spend the night, get on a pirogue for five hours, hike over boulders for another hour and wah-lah!”

Picture #2…worth showing. At this point the rain was pouring from the sky. Rocks + moss + rain = falling down. Everyone got their chance…and it wasn’t pretty. I had a difficult time navigating the rocks without it being slippery. Ludo saved the day by finding me a walking stick…but it was a LONG hike back. Our ride home was a blustery, cold one. We made it in 1.5 hours…which tells you how blustery. I was shaking like a leaf…but hot tea and a warm shower helped!

Dinner! I finally get my chance to talk about the food! This is delicious river fish. Most of the time your choices are fish, chicken or zebu…served with rice or fried potatoes. You soon learn to avoid the chicken…scrawny, rangy looking things….they taste like they look. The Zebu is delicious when served with marinade. The first red meat I’ve liked in a long time.

Grands Tsingy, Madagascar

The next morning we woke up at 4:30AM to hike the Grands Tsingy, which once gave shelter to the first inhabitants of Madagascar. This tsingy required some climbing equipment for safety. I would also advise that you not be claustrophobic, afraid of heights or obese for that matter….

This is when you pray that there is not an earthquake. I compared it to the Star Wars scene where they are in the trash compactor and the walls are closing in. Ahhhhh! The boulders suspended above your head make it even more fun.

The Grands tsingy is taller and much sharper….very beautiful!

Caves are a wonderful place to take a break and cool down….the tsingy was incredibly hot even in the early morning.

Our rock climbing background came in handy while climbing to the top of the sharp tsingy.

On top of the Grands tsingy with Ludo, our guide. If you ever come to Madagascar we can give you the contact info for the best guide in Madagascar!

One at a time across this bridge…it was a long way down. We later found out that Ludo conquered his fear of heights in the Grands Tsingy. Impressive.

Back down again. Wooden planks and boulders were bolted to the rock to give you something to step on. Most were secure....

As we were hiking out through the forest we came upon a group of brown lemur that were feasting on fruit. We were able to walk right up to them which Ludo said was rare! Three had tiny babies with them.

How can you resist that face? I was sitting right next to them.

We ended our day with a night walk. We were hoping to see the tiny mouse lemur. Dean thought it might be a “snipe hunt” as we stood out in the woods waiting…but alas, the tiny lemur came dashing through the trees! We finally caught him munching on some fruit. Once you shine your flashlight in their eyes they don’t move…probably blinded…poor thing!

Petits Tsingy, Madagascar

Our first morning we headed to the Parc National Des Tsingy De Bemaraha, a Unesco World Heritage site. It is one of the largest and most spectacular protected areas in Madagascar. Tsingy are jagged, limestone pinnacles. They were formed over centuries by the movement of wind and water. We started on our first day with the Petits Tsingy. Our guide from the park (as well as Ludo) was Rody, who did speak some English.

These spiny trees grow literally right out of the rock….reminded me of a tree in Malaysia that I grabbed onto in the jungle a few times…ouch.

We climbed down into the tsingy….you tread carefully as it is sharp! A definition of tsingy is "tiptoe" as the people who lived within these caves would tiptoe on the sharp rock!

We then climbed up onto a platform above the tsingy. You can see the layers of rock that formed over the years.

Our first lemur spotting! This is the Sifaka. They remind me of little lambs with their wooly white fur and black faces.

Yes, this is the “small” tsingy…can you imagine what the large looks like? It was very “Indiana Jones”….

We descended below the tsingy into some amazing caves. This one looked like a cathedral. Lot's of stalactites and stalagmites.

We were making our way through a pitch black cave with only our head lamps for light…my shoulders were scraping the sides…when I notice this snake coiled up at my feet. I think I did what any smart person would do, and leaped back onto Dean. The guys teased me for my “fear of snakes”…but come on! Turns out it is not poisonous….but I’m glad my survival instincts are strong. We also saw big spiders, frogs, bats and lizards.

The brown lemur….check out the personality in that face!!!! He has to have a name like George or Harold…don’t you think?

At the end of a hot, sticky day of hiking there is nothing better than taking a cold shower and hanging out on the porch with a “Three Horses” beer. Ahhhh.

One of the restaurants we frequented. This little village is right on the river….and by November will be torn down as the wet season comes. They cooked over a fire, and I’m fairly certain they did not have refrigeration (well, if you count blocks of ice). The food was delicious…and luckily our stomachs stayed strong.

Morondava, Madagascar

We flew to the western coast of Madagascar, arriving in Morondava. We stayed at “Chez Maggie” a hotel on the beach that doubles as a tour company. After nine months of traveling on our own, we have finally succumbed to taking a “tour”. The rough travel combined with our inability to speak much French made us think twice about going it alone. Probably one of the best decisions we have made! We got a 4WD with a driver, and an English speaking "Naturalist" guide (Ludo!) for a six day adventure.

On our way out of town we passed our first Zebu cart. The Zebu (Malagasy cow) indicates wealth and status and are sacrificed during ceremonies. We ate Zebu meat a few times…delicious! We also passed a posse of men carrying spears/guns/machetes tracking their stolen Zebu. At each village they pass, the posse gets larger as men join the hunt. We asked Ludo what happens when they find the thieves and he said, “They kill them.” Huh.

THE ROAD. This is the paved part. It is actually worse than the sand and dirt part. Our driver took us on the side, avoiding the pavement altogether. Then we had to dodge bikes, pedestrians, Zebu carts and other vehicles. Our first day we drove 124 miles, which took us around 10 hours (including lunch stop and two ferries). Our average speed was most likely under 20MPH. No air conditioning…so your sweaty skin is pasted in dust. Good thing there was lots to see on the way!

We stopped at the Avenue du Baobab, one of the most photographed spots in Madagascar. The trees here are as old as one thousand years. Their bulbous trunks store water, allowing them to survive the dry season. They look like something out of a Dr. Seuss book! Ludo mentioned that they appear to be an “upside down” tree….their branches look like roots, while their roots grow long like branches. Sadly, these magnificent trees are being destroyed by the burning of fields as well as the encroachment of rice paddies.

I’ve been in many a “squatter”…but this was my first “drop” squatter. The good news is that we have developed stomachs of steel after nine months of foreign foods. No "Montezuma's Revenge" yet!

Ferry #1. On the way home they combined two ferries together and we had nine cars on it. The ride on the river can take 30-60 minutes…in the nice hot sun!

Everyone had their cameras out for the unloading. You never know when one is going to slip off the planks!

This is the dirt/sand road that took up the majority of the trip…the paved road only lasted 5-10 miles. The good news is that we weren’t in this truck. It looked like it might tip over at ever lurch.

We took a leg stretching break, and all the village kids ran out of the bush to greet us. They followed my every move…I couldn't communicate with them (they speak Malagasy) so we resorted to drawing on the dusty car. I noticed signs of malnutrition (sorry, have to keep my work skills up) and asked Ludo what they eat. They survive mainly on rice and Cassava…very little protein.

The typical village. When we drive past the kids shout “Eau Vive!” which is the bottled water we drink. They want the empty bottles for storage of cooking oil, honey, etc.

We made it! Our last ferry of the day…across the river is the town we would stay in and the national parks we would explore.

Our hotel was much nicer than we expected! This village is only used during the dry season…it is abandoned in the wet season. Our only issue was the “dead animal” that we were told had been removed from underneath our room…however the stench lingered…and lingered. Well…it is the wild west.