Maputo, Mozambique

We arrived in Maputo, Mozambique the “real Africa” as our hotel manager said (South Africa does not count!). Our drive in from the airport showed a city that has seen better times. Garbage everywhere, the smell of cooking fires and lots of people desperately trying to make a living. Interesting, as Lonely Planet quoted “Maputo is easily one of Africa’s most attractive capitals.” (Hmmmm…..)

On the way to our hotel the taxi pulled into a queue of cars waiting for a ferry. We looked at the address we had and realized we were not staying in Maputo. We had been duped by Trip Advisor’s review where someone had stated “Great location!” Depends on if you like taking a 30 minute ferry and walking for another 30 minutes! We told the taxi to move on, and got in the long line of locals waiting to hop on the small dilapidated boat that would take us across the bay to Catembe.

The town consisted of a gas station, a few small stores and stretches of dirt road. We had no idea where the hotel was and it did not appear that anyone spoke English (all Portuguese). Finally a young boy approached us, hoping to get money. In our desperation we mentioned the name of the hotel, and he ran to get the bartender who was on the ferry with us! Akim called the hotel and the 4WD with the hotel manager came and saved the day!

Off the ferry dock women were selling fresh seafood….fish and shrimp….with the occasional fly.

Our hotel was really very nice. The owner had bought what used to be a famous restaurant known for their prawns, and completely renovated it. It was a strange oasis in the middle of a rundown village.

The hotel brochure encouraged “taking a romantic barefoot walk on the beach”….so we did….only not barefoot. Garbage between your toes is not romantic.

The locals fishing boats with the city skyline across the bay in the background.

On our walk home we chose the dirt road. This picture shows one of the many homes that have gone to ruin. Later that evening we talked to the manager, who recently moved to Mozambique from France. He gave us some history. In 1975 the People’s Republic of Mozambique was proclaimed, and the Portuguese pulled out…leaving Mozambique in a state of chaos. Peace was not seen in this country until around 1992.

Catembe is a very basic village, most of the locals come into town to get water and provisions. There are small farm plots, and livestock roaming the streets. The latest news is that the Chinese are going to build a bridge and get rid of the ferry. All of the land is being bought up for future “resorts” and fancy homes. We were lucky to see Catembe as a village.

The next day we headed into the city. There is some beautiful architecture…this is the train station. It was voted by Newsweek as one of the 10 most beautiful in the world. It dates from 1910. It is one of the few buildings that has been kept up.

After surviving a torrential rainstorm we ended up in the Municipal Market. Stalls overflowing with fruits, vegetables and spices. Not necessarily the driest place…note the holes in the ceiling.

We walked most of the city. We almost adapted to the overpowering smell of urine and the garbage piled everywhere. This is a picture of a typical sidewalk. Can’t tell you how many times I tripped. It was a long, tiresome day….and we were more than happy to head back to the quiet village of Catembe….maybe it was a great location after all! Now on to Vilankulo…and the Bazaruto Archipelago for some beach time and diving!